Am I on the right track with this attic air sealing?

The biggest concern with spraying foam directly against recessed light housings is heat dissipation. If those aren't **IC-rated** (Insulation Contact) fixtures, you run a serious risk of the thermal protector tripping or even a fire hazard by trapping heat against the metal can. If they are older non-IC cans, you need to pull that foam back and install a ten-inch clearance cover or build a small box out of rigid foam board around them before you blow in the new insulation. If they're modern LED wafer lights or rated for contact, you're usually fine, but it pays to double-check the labels inside the housing first. For that kitchen soffit, don't just try to spray the gaps if it's wide open to the attic. The best move is to cap the entire open area with **rigid foam board** or a piece of plywood. You cut the material to fit the opening, secure it to the framing, and then run a bead of foam around the perimeter of the board. This creates a solid air barrier so your blown-in insulation doesn't just fall into the wall cavity behind the kitchen cabinets. It saves you a ton of foam and is way more effective than trying to bridge a large gap with just the orange stuff.

Since you're still running wires, make sure you're using fire-rated foam or at least the standard orange stuff for all those penetrations. If you have a large plumbing stack or a chase for ductwork, the foam won't be enough. You'll want to use some fire-blocking material like mineral wool or piece together some scraps of drywall to bridge the gap before sealing the edges. When you get to those baffles, make sure they are stapled securely to the rafters so they don't shift when the blower starts. Tucking fiberglass batts at the bottom is a solid move to prevent wind washing, but just make sure you don't compress the fiberglass too much or it loses its R-value. You want a snug fit that stops the airflow from the soffit vents from blowing through your loose-fill, but still lets the air travel up the baffle to the ridge vent.

Since you're worried about those light cans, just grab a few Tenmat FF130 recessed light covers. They’re fire-rated and let you foam right up to the edges without a safety hazard. It’s way easier than building boxes out of scrap.

Also, if you’re still swapping baffles, I highly recomend the AccuVent attic vent products. They’re made of rigid plastic so they won't sag or rot like the flimsy foam ones, and they give you a much cleaner seal against the top plate when you’re stuffing that fiberglass in.

This is so cool to read about! I'm just getting started with my own attic project and honestly had no idea you coud use fire-rated covers for lights. I'm super pumped to get up there now! Quick question for everyone though—since you’re talking about sealing things up, has anyone ever tried using those thermal imaging cameras you can plug into a phone to find leaks? I saw one at the hardware store and was wondering if they acutally work or if they're just a pricey toy.

Skip those cheap phone cameras; they're toys. If you want to see where you're actually losing BTUs, rent a FLIR E6 or better. Regarding those baffles, make sure you aren't just stuffing R-13 fiberglass batts at the eaves and calling it a day. I always use a piece of 2-inch SilverGlo or similar rigid EPS foam to block the wind-wash zone. If you just shove fiberglass in there, air will eventually cut right thru it. Seal that foam block with a Bead of Great Stuff Pro, then your blown-in R-49 or R-60 won't budge even in a gale.

Totally agree with the rigid foam block at the eaves. It makes a world of difference for stopping wind-wash. One small thing I’ve found that helps when you’re doing that soffit cap is to use a high-tack construction adhesive like PL Premium along with the foam. Sometimes when you're just using the orange spray foam to hold a rigid board in place in a tight, dusty kitchen soffit, the board can shift before the foam fully cures. A few dabs of real adhesive keeps it rock solid so your air seal stays perfect while you're maneuvering the blower hose around.