WHY RELAY for Humidifier?

Its rocket science. Dont try to figure it out. Just do it. Bubba

This true folks? The return air in the winter time isn't really that "cold"--around 72 deg... I guess I'd be able to see this condensing water at the filter (bottom of return duct)?

My problem is that the burners don't run often and long enough to allow the humidifier to do its job... small house... good insulation... HRV pumping out humidity... etc.

Peace, Dan

If this really is the case, then I'm pissed--this is one major job that I totally trusted a local "reputable" and expensive HVAC shop... all certified professionals to boot...

Peace, Dan

Now Now, junior........relax. They may have screwed up and oversized it but remember......have you done any home improvements since it was installed? New/more insulation? Insulated outer doors, garage door, weather stripping, windows, etc? Its not their fault if you didnt tell them. You can also downsize some furnaces in btu output by replacing the orifices. Keep in mind this needs to be approved by the manufacturer as a kit. Even so, I still recommend the proper size furnace. Bubba

Connect supply water to hot water, install current sensing relay on common wire of blower motor Anytime blower is on and the humidistat is calling for operation....you have humidity I over humidify my house...BECAUSE I WANT to...I like a moist house

I like mine HOT, SWEET, and STICKY!

OK--but could I not just wire to EAC terminals and keep blower on continuous?

Peace, Dan

On the equipment I've serviced (Rheem), the EAC requires heat and blower in order to make power to the terminal. Terminal provides 110 volts, incidentally.

You're stupid. The EAC terminals on the furnace control boards do NOT need a call for heat and blower to power the terminals. Blower only you dip. Bubba

Correct..

the HUM terminals or wire taps are only engaged when the gas valve is called for

So disconnect the HSI and just the fan will run making your humidifier run :o)