Ken on my earlier post I thought that we were talking the terminal on compressor it self, but after looking at picture whatever maybe worth to you, you have one of two problems, one is and most likely low voltage supply or line voltage drop or both, two possible bad cap resulting compressor shutting down on overload and then trying to start up again "word is short cycling" this would also caused for kick start to burn up, and replace that bad wire put spade terminal and solder it in for good connection. Good luck from Dido
Its a combination of things.... the biggest problem is the ignorance of the owner. What works on paper doesn't necessarely work in real life. You are only giving us half of the story......... Call a local *PRO* not the lowest bidder. We have already seen *your* work.
Could be... If the compressor is spending alot of time in locked rotor cause it doesn't start properly, it could account for everything. Do all three burn off, or just two. How's the compressor wire look on L1 on the compressor side of the contactor? Is it all toasty like the red one? You said you are replacing a few inches of wire every time it cooks. Maybe the burning off is starting at the end that you are spicing rather than at the compressor terminals - hey, it's toasted all the way up to the contactor. Replace the whole length of wire. After you do a hack.. er, I mean a splice job, do you check the wires after the compressor runs for a while to see if they're warm / hot, or do you just wait for thermonuclear meltdown? What's the line voltage drop to during start? What does the line voltage drop to across the run windings during start AT THE COMPRESSOR TERMINALS.
The big question is... Why did you put up this for ten years while it was under warranty?
So, why do you come here? For you and your buddies to jerk each other off and make nasty insults to people who come here for help? You think of this as a video came with real people?
As for "seeing" my work you haven't "seen" a damn piece of my work. I'll say AGAIN everything you *see* in that picture was done by a "Pro". NONE of it was done by me. So you know what I get by hiring the likes of you and know why I now try to fix it myself.
Do you come here to spew out bile, because if you did it to someone's face they'd wax the street with you?
Only one. The other two scorch but don't burn off. T1 burns off (this is the lead also connected to the capacitor). The lead from the capacitor to the compressor is the second worst burned. It has the insulation melted for about an inch from the compressor terminal, but the wire has not burned off. T2s insulation is scorched about 1/2" from it's compressor terminal (this is the lead that goes only to the compressor).
I didn't follow that. What toasty red one? If you are looking at the picture, it was only for the purpose of clearly defining what I meant by the Super-Boost. It is an older picture taken before I replaced all three compressor wires with Term-Loc wires. There is no evidence of scorching or burning except near the compressor terminals, in the way explained above.
There are no splices. I cut off the burned end back to bright copper and stake on a new connector.
Can't just ask the question without the jab?
Yes, I've checked the wires after the compressor has run for 5+ minutes. They're cool (ambient) right up to 2-3 inches from the compressor terminals.
I haven't measured these. I will do so and report back.
Jesus Christ! The f****ng thing isnt wired correctly for f****ng sakes! Pay comeone who knows WTF they are doing, replace the contactor, burnt wires, test and if needed replace the cap, (thats a run cap BTW not a start) and wire the mother fucker right. The compressor is a PSC motor and so is the damn fan motor. Look up PSC motor wiring and all will become clear. Problem over now get the f*ck out of here. Sheesh.
I run across your kind of BS on an all too regular basis, then they expect me to fix their screw-ups for free. If you had called a *competent* tech in the first place, you wouldn't be having these problems now. I figure that you got the unit installed by the lowest bidder and it hasn't been right since day one. You yourself said that the guy screwed with it for 10 years till the warranty was up and never did correct the cause. Before you start slinging stuff I don't want to step in, please consider that those of us that are professionals, see this all the time. I don't have a problem with walking away from a job. I *do* have a problem with people that are not professionals, without the training, education, and experience messing with stuff they really have no business screwing with. I have even less tollerance for for hacks and guys that "do it on the side".
I have been posting on this news group for as many years and my killfile is full of folks that get pissy when they don't get told what they want to hear..... care to join them??
The incoming supply voltage at the contactor with the unit idle is
144volts
During start the voltage across the compressor terminals T1/T2 rises to 143volts within less than 1/2 second. During this half-second my meter reads out of range.
With the unit running:
the drop across T1/T2 fluctuates between 142-143v.
the voltage drop from the contactor terminals to the end of each lead T1 and T2 is about 0.1volts.
the drop across the contactor contacts is about 0.05volts for each contact..
There's part of the problem.... You're about a hundred volts too low. For a residence - assuming non delta (of any variety) - you should be around
220-250 volts. I can only assume you made an error during your measurements, your meter is broken, or you made a typo. It ain't gonna start at 143 volts. Also, someone else here asked for the data from the label / plate on the compressor in order to do some research...... Model, LRA, FLA, etc.
...........and where are you now? Now you will most likely get to replace the compressor on your dime because you have let yourself, your buddies and some supposed "company" work on a unit in which none of you had a clue about. The terminals are now futzed beyond repair and you get to replace the compressor, contactor, drier, run cap, refrigerant and any start components. Or you can replace the whole outdoor unit and indoor coil. Dont worry, It'll only sting a little. Bubba Bubba
Hey, don't get snotty with us! You put up with these fucknuts doing the same thing for 10 years because you are a dufus, now you want it fixed for free and fast. I'm surprised these shitbirds haven't sold you a new system.
If the steering column in your Yugo burnt up every six months don't you think you'd find another pep boys to take it to? Christ they're so lazy by this time that don't even clean the smoke off the windshield and snicker when you go into the store to buy more rags and windex...
Steve, .....for 1.6¢ worth of plastic & 5.4¢ worth of electrinics? Try 62,485 times mark-up! Steve, I know you're an excellent HVAC Technician, just a dumb-ass businessman!
Actually I do carry "rescue wires"(Term-Lok wires) on the truck and they are only $51 each *installed* :-) They cost a bit more than you proported 6 cents per wire.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.