Heh...he's perfectly calm--if I have any clue.
You, ( OTOH ) seem to have but very few clues....suggest first make sure
your heat pump isnt cooling when it should in fact be heating.....
After that, suggest re-read all posts ( hint--most of them are spot-on )
then go figure a while before doing anything.
Right, which is why I'm here trying to learn more about it. There has
been some good information posted and I appreciate that. Not sure why
folks feel the need to bash me though. Oh well.
So it looks like this Add-on heat pump kit (TAYPLUS103A) is a
fossil-fuel kit, correct? My thermostat has an option to choose the
backup heat source as electric or fossil-fuel. Currently it is set to
electric. There is also an option, if fossil-fuel is selected, to use
an external fossil-fuel kit to control backup heat, or use the
thermostat. This is not enabled because electric backup is specified.
Seems to me that fossil-fuel should be selected as backup and the
External fossil fuel kit should be enabled.
Quit fucking around with it and call a qualified technician to set it up
What a pissy little homoaner! Stop being so fucking stubborn and cheap and
get that thing fixed.
Do you want to burn your house down or kill your family?
With the typical setup, the heat pump will run continuous until it can no
longer keep up with heating demand, at which point aux heat ( second, third
stages ) will also kick in....typically the heat pump is kept active even
while the aux is running.
Do your own homework, electric and fossil fuel prices actually do vary
considerably depending upon physical location....an important constant for
comparison being the value "BTUH"
You should fucking quit complaining and pay the man--then, also pay him to
install new ductwork at some point after the holidays if the noise still
You're kidding right? I paid 12K for this install. I got top of the
line components. I was told "you won't even hear the furnace it's so
quiet." They damn well better make sure I don't hear it. Would you
settle, or pay even more to get the problem fixed?
One of the problems with these high end systems is finding decent
technicians to install them. I mean these guys told you they turn off
one of the features on every install. That should have been your first
clue. Does it sound like they know how to install and set up the
system to work properly? They're messing around with fan speeds to
solve noise problems. Does that sound right to you?
A $2k system installed properly is better than a $12k system installed
Any possible savings using the heat pump depends on the cost of
electricity compared to gas prices.
The above also depends on how efficient the system is operating "in each
Proper airflow levels are critical to the efficient operation of all of
the heating modes.
The listed blower motor speeds, to be used, may NOT even be delivering
the required airflow!
Read all the links below & have the actual airflow CFM checked along
with the ductwork!
Bring everything up to the required specs, "& then do the proper tests
to verify the results."
I would guess that the heat pump might be operating at a lower percent
of its rated efficiency - than the gas mode!
There is a chance that it is not wired properly. - udarrell
PROPER A/C UNIT & DUCTWORK Sizing is over 70% of Operating Efficiency
You can't control both stages of the gas furnace with that stat with a
heat pump as primary and furnace as auxillary heat. X2 is the only
source from the stat for aux heat, therefore, W1 and W2 must be
jumpered together at the furnace.
They need to make all those tests while you are watching the actual
results of the tests.
You have to verify everything they did during the entire installation.
However, first you have to know how the installation & its sequence
procedures should have been properly done!
Follow the links on my Website, print & read the pages & then ask them
to list there installation procedures in writing.
You paid $10K, - they can afford to do that for you!
You deserve to get the operating efficiencies & the quality installation
that they represented to you. - udarrell
PROPER A/C UNIT & DUCTWORK Sizing is over 70% of Operating Efficiency
You can re-enable the Adaptive Intelligent recovery on the stat but it
sounds like your system has more problems. Changing blower speeds
because of noise is a sign of an improperly sized system or duct work
or both. Each time the blower speed is changed the refrigerant charge
needs to be re-checked along with all the performance data. Yes! It
makes a difference. It will affect the performance.
There is no "rule of thumb" on when to operate a heat pump or gas
furnace. It depends on the price of the gas and electric in your area
and the balance point of your home.Your installers should have given
you all this info. Balance point is the point where the heat pump
will no longer produce enough heat to keep your home at set
temperature. The comfort R feature is no big deal. It provides a
little more comfort while sacraficing a little bit of efficiency. You
can use either way and see which you like.
W1 and W2 jumpered is the lazy ass way to make a system use both
stages. Unfortunately, the last stage of heat wont come on until the
set time period in the board (up to 15 mins) has elapsed NO matter how
cold it is in your home. This can get rather nippy on a cold winter
morning when you wake. It needs to be properly wired to a multi-stage
thermostat such as the Honeywell Vision Pro stat (and YES, I hate
advertising like that. They should pay me).
Your O terminal should be wired to the reversing valve. YLo and Y are
for a 2 speed heat pump.
Your fossil fuel board on the side of the furnace is a termination for
most all the low voltage wiring. It handles the switching of the heat
pump, furnace, defrost cycle and cooling. If you have the H/W Vision
Pro stat, it handles all the functions of that fossil fuel kit. I
prefer that way as it removes a lot of controls which can always
malfunction and cost the homeowner money.
Your system sounds like it isnt working in proper order/sequence.
First stage heat pump should always heat first unless it is colder
outside than the outdoor temp selection or if the system is in
defrost. Continued dropping of the temperature in the house shuts off
the heat pump and brings on the second stage of gas heat. A further
drop brings on the 3rd stage of gas heat. Keep in mind that the H/W
does have its own information logged and will vary this a bit
according to the needs IT thinks IT needs. This is also if it is all
wired properly and dip switch setting are set right.
AGAIN, you need to call the installing company. Tell them your
intentions.......that your system is not working properly and you want
to have it working as it should. If they cant handle that request,
then call another dealer and maybe even a Trane Rep and have it done
right. Then decide what you are going to do to recoup the extra
dollars you paid to have it done right.
You also need to wisely decide to purchase a 5 or 10 yr parts AND
labor warranty. It will be well worth it.
And Finally.......This is more info than Ive produced in a long long
time. You should pay me for it :-)
NONE of this info is meant for you to get in and start mucking around
with settings. You dont have the knowledge or know how. Have a trained
professional do it.
Thanks for the reply. I plan on having the installer back on Friday
and describing all of these things again to him. You mention the
thermostat can control the fossil-fuel kit. I notice my thermostat has
an option to enable using the fossil fuel kit, but it is currently
disabled. I'll ask the installer about this as well, but could that
cause any issues?
NO! Now dont get confused. If you have a stat like the H/W Vision Pro
you do NOT need that fossil fuel kit you have hanging on the side of
your furnace. The stat does all the switching, thinking and changing.
If you ARE using the fossil fuel kit hanging on the side of your
furnace then that option should be disabled in the stat.
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