Well, I don't think that Staybrite would do much for your pipes.
Might reduce your heat gain?
The couple times I've used brazing sticks, they take a lot of heat,
and do an OK job. I've not had a lot of success with brazing.
I was introduced to Stay-Brite 8. Which is a silver bearing solder.
And that has worked very successfully for me for many years.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
From my point of view you can use Silphose, stay-bright or silver
it depend what is your application where and what are you
repairing. If is just copper pipe/tubing to copper pipe/tubing
cheapest Silphose like 5% will work just fine, 15 % I use only
if customer request that otherwise don't west your money
and if you are fixing or repairing something near part that
heat may do some damaged then you use silver or stay-bright
you choose as your application may require.
You or "THE BOSS" from Dido
Turbo torch + MAPP gas, R22, suction and liquid line set to new coil
It seems like a mix of opinions. Some prefer SilPhos and others swear
by Stay Brite. Some even use soft solder but I discount those as
The brazing heat from SilPhos weakens the fittings. Others say that
the Stay Brite flux can hurt the system however Nitrogen flow isn't
needed for the Stay Brite.
A 2 tip on that smaller stuff and oxy-acet? Man... you're good.
What's the gas mix on that rig? I got the job done with the same setup
but boy it was HOT. My test piece got melted (-;.
I'm interested in what kind of torch handle you use to get into those...
tight places (Paul, don't start)?
And what kind of rosebud?
Nahhh..... I'm just practicing :-)
In my younger days, I used to could do a single pass gas weld on 3/8 inch
thick steel with 95% penetration.
I normally run 6psi on the acetylene regulator, and 10 psi on the oxy
regulator. I like a hot fire, it gets the job done quick with all the heat
right where I want it and a lot less chance of getting everything else in
the area too hot. I like to use wet paper towls to keep near by componants
from overheating... like service valves.
In theory, the paper when if it gets dried out will burn befor the valve
seals do.... never had it take that long before... even on 1 1/8 inch
Its just your basic Uniweld portable torch kit. The rosebud was extra.
On the rosebud it says its a #15 if that helps... they have them at the
supply houses that carry commercial and refrigeration stuff for brazing
larger diameter copper pipe. They had a little "shorty" tip that was about 3
inches, I opted for the longer that is about 7 inches. FWIW, there are a lot
of places where its a lot easier to get a long tip into than you whole hand,
torch, and tip. Its kinda like using a screwdriver.... *most* of the time I
will grab the long one, unless all I can fit is a stubby.
FWIW- I too use an oxy-acy setup, #2 tip exclusively. everything from
1/4" copper to 1-1/8. The rosebud is for anything over 1-1/8.
I use the torch handle with the knobs downstream of the handle, just
before the tip. Oxy is 21 psi, acytelene is 7 psi. Even got a cutting
torch tip, rarely used tho.
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