Furnace guy said my filter and filter opening looked to small 16x25x1 for the 90% Tempstar N9MP1100F14 gas furnace. I am having a lennox hc16 filter put in. Will increasing the size from my 16x25x1 to a larger opening of 20x20x5 or 20x25x5 give me less air flow at my vents on the first floor, the air flow now is seems to be on the lite side.
The tempstar book on my furnace list a 16x25x1 size that's why im asking, it must not be too small it that is what it calls for. Dont mind going to a larger opening if it will help with dust and air flow.
The wildcard is the x5, it sounds like he's thinking a much t hicker pleated filter. A 16 x 25 x 1 is a very common filter size which is found at most hardware stores, and at all the Walmarts near me. The other one with the x5 thickness is likely a specialized filter which may be harder to find.
The 5 inch thick filter likely has a LOT more surface area, and very likely would provide better air flow and better filtration. I'd want to ask if they are available at box stores, or if you would then be locked into a service contract for replacement filters.
You know, Mr. ZZZZZ - I'd be more concerned that the tech can't diagnose the problem at the evaporator. You comments about it being either, this, or this, or that, or maybe that, and the defrost stuck thing -
All things being equal, your HVAC heat pump tech should have no problem finding "the" problem. I'm not sure 'what' you meant by "pumping" the evaporator [indoor coil in heat pump terms]. If there's a clogged screen near the TXV / metering device that needs clearing, then he needs to recover the refrigerant, take it apart, clear it, dehydrate, and charge [after installing a bi-flow liquid filter drier.]
This is the second company i had, the first one told me is was the defrost board so he put a new one in under warranty i paid 128.00 for the labor he wanted to eliminate the fossil fuel board and re-wire it I told him no it had worked fine for 4 years that i just wanted to to work the way it was. The defrost board did not fix it. So i called another company that the builder of the house uses. They cam out and checked it and said the reversing valve was not working right but said it sounded like it was switching that he thought it was a restriction in the evaporator not letting enough pressure through to reverse the valve and some screen don't remember what one can clog and cause that. But if that did not take care of it they would need to replace the reversing valve. I got the phone number of the first company right off Tempstar's web site, the one who wanted to wire it with out the fossil fuel board and some other board he said it did not need. Tempstar people put it in new so i think it does need the boards.
Any way I will never get a Tempstar again when the people they list on the Tempstar web site can not or don't know how to fix it. It leaves the customer who knows nothing about heat pumps to wonder just who to call when the tempstar authorized technician seem to know nothing. I just hope someone gets it fixed. Your right the filter should be the last thing i should be thinking about, but the second company in, the one who is going to be working on it tomorrow seem to think the filter was to small and before the heat pump broke we were thinking about a better filter system.
I called the guy who is working on it, they they are taking the gas out and replacing the dryer and some screen, I sure hope this fixes it,
This part you dunderhead: You dont just increase a return or a supply for that matter. You size it correctly or just pull out your thumbs and guess. Bubba
How exactly would he be locked into a service contract when all he has to do is get online? As always, you never amaze me anymore, Stormy. Just one stupid blunder after another outta your mouth. Bubba
Holy shit! You cant be for real? Like I said the first time. You have no idea about static pressure in a duct system. You also have no idea about motor rpm, amperage and CFM. How sad. Bubba
jamesgangnc said: "You can't harm the system by having less supply resistance"
And just what school did you go to that said that? I'm guessing the manufacturer just supplies all those charts of graphs with phunny little numbers on them so well "all" would "think" there's more to it then just duct and tape.
The material that generally stops up filter screens [and the small capillary line in the reversing valve] is copper oxide. The copper flaking is from the "original install" of the refrigerant lineset by the installing contractor. If he would have used Nitrogen during the brazing process, it would have minimized or even eliminated the copper oxide flaking. Or he could have installed a bi-flow liquid line filter drier. In either case, Tempstar is not the problem, the installing contractor is likely the root of the problem. Albeit Tempstar is a "track side" / ecomomy unit, if it is installed properly will give years of service.
You need to check with your family and friends about who they've used to repair their air conditioning & heating.
Your current choices aren't working well. A good technition will identify your problem and not say somthing like "it might be this, or might be that." He / she will find the problem, give you a solid quote on cost to repair and back their decision up with a warranty. [Unlike many medical doctors will.] Because if you find a qualified HVAC tech, he's not "practicing", he's doing.
I'd get my heat pump fixed first, then maybe think about filter / return air upgrades. And, BTW: some heat pump fan coil units [BDP and CARRIER come to mind] that if you offer less than 2/10" w.c. static on the return, and less than a total of 5/10" w.c. on the complete system, you WILL have condensate blow off on the evaporator from too much velocity. Check the install sheets if you don't believe me. Their available online.
The guy came out today and replaced the dryer and the screen at the evaporator. He did use the Nitrogen to blow through the lines. he pulled the vacuum for about 4 hours then put 12lbs of R-22 in he was surprised it took that much and double checked the info on the side of the outside unit and it was 13lbs. He had a thing that showed the amount going in, he pot 3 extra oz in before it closed the valve and said that was fine that way. He put the filter in while the vacuum was going. That took some time as he had to take that part of the duct down and cut and make it different to go in. He did tell me that my return air vents were about 4" to small, the company that put it all in had gone out of business and they were doing all the warranty work for the builder that used them and all the one's they seen so far had the return vents to small.
Anyway so far it seems to be working fine, it's like 28 outside and anything 37 or so and below before kept sending into that defrost all the time and sticking, plus the air condition part is working again, it would not go into the air condition before, it must have got that copper oxide stuff when i switched over to heat this year. If it works right tonight I think that it will be ok !!
Sure hope that copper oxide stuff does not do that again.
That may be happing, the evaporator sure looked rusty all the way up and down on the part were all the copper loops come out of the evaporator. It will be 4 years old in march and the rust was all over it. I was going to spray it with that stuff that stops rust be forgot and it back togather now. If it goes again I might think about getting a Lenox or find a deal with parts and labor on something but i hope i get a few more years out of what i got now..
I talked to a friend tonight he is replacing his Air and furnace, Home Depot is having some heating company do it. He is getting the upper end i think as he said it was going to be $10,000 but they also gave him in writing that that would cover 10 years parts and the labor, may not be to bad as it just cost me around $550.00 for what i had done and that don't count the filter, I think i got a good price on the HC-16 Merv 16. All that vent work to install plus the Hc-16 for $450.00
I suppose we will hear from you again around say, June when the air conditioning start to have trouble. Either water overflowing, indoor coil icing, somthing. Glad to hear you all got some 'heat.'
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