I bought a house that has a newly installed Trane air heat pump and an
electric furnace emergency backup.
As far as I'm concerned I don't want the HVAC company that installed it to
look at it as they want to charge me for an incompetent setup.
The way its set up is the heat pump runs whenever the stat is calling for
heat...even down below temps in the teens and colder when the heat pump is
obviously useless...it still runs along with the electric furnace. This is
a horrible waste of electricity and I figure is costing me about 30% more on
my electric bill when the outside temp is that cold.
Anyone know of a thermostat that I can install that is inexpensive as
possible that will lock the heat pump out when the electric furnace kicks
on? Or one that I can install an outside sensor and the heat pump kicks off
at a certain temp and tells the backup to run?
You got 3 choices... you can call the installer to come out and correct any
problems, or you can call a competent, licensed HVAC tech to come out and
correct any problems, or you can live with it.
FWIW, the heat pump and strip heat are doing what they were designed to do,
and thats to maintain a constant, even temperature in your home. If you
don't like it, have it ripped out and go back with propane or oil heat and
let the oil companies bend you over.
Or I can get a proper thermostat and outdoor sensor and do it myself. Its
not that hard, just didn't know which thermostat to use or what is
dont HVAC techs just hate it when normal people can do what they can do?
Must really suck.
Not only that, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that heat
pump performance charts don't mean a thing if the heat pump is no longer
able to bring the indoor temperature up to satisfy the thermostat.
So if a heat pump is running and instead of the indoor temp going up...it
goes down...its a waste of electricity for it to run from that point on.
Its called common sense which a few of the so-called HVAC techs seem to
Mind you, I'm not talking about the credible techs with real
knowledge...just a few hacks that have no business being in the
business...like p.jm, Bubba and Noon-Air
Please explain the logic that says that a heat source must exceed the
heat loss for it not to be "a waste of electricity." Please
corroborate your logic by answering the following questions:
At about 17 degrees Fahrenheit, what is the watts input and BTU/hr
output of the system with 1) heat-pump only 2) electric furnace only
3) both ? Now, calculate the EER by dividing BTU/hr output by watts
input for each of those three scenarios. Which one gives you the
highest EER? If you don't have actual measurements of your system,
feel free to consult those performance charts.
Actually I *DO* understand and use performance charts routinely, TYVM. I use
them every time I design a system for one of my customers, as I did again
The temperature doesn't have to go *up* for a heat pump to be
working....even if its putting out enough heat to partially offset the total
heat loss of the structure, its still working. The strips are just there to
*AUGMENT* the heat pump when its not keeping up.
Heat pumps at 17F will normally make better than 50% of their total rated
heat capacity at 47F.
If the heat pump is not correctly installed and the refrigerant charge
properly balanced, all bets are off.
Not even close.
What lacks common sense is to make all your wild claims without posting your
location, the actual results of the Manual J heat load/loss calculations,
the actual air balance results, and make/model/serial numbers of the heat
pump, and air handler. Without this minimum information, *NOBODY* can give
you any difinitive answers.
Say what you will... but until you actually come and see any of us and
witness what we do and how we do it, then you have no basis for your claims.
*Most* of us have been certified master techs for 10 years or more. Thats
not something that they give away like they do computer science and liberal
Hey shithead appears you sure can read between the lines and stretch things
when it suits your agenda.
All of the above including Noon have a high level of technical expertise,
just that Noon happens to live in an area where heat pumps rarely if ever
even go into defrost mode.
No why is he asking here just he should fucking do it.
Charge to show up for an hour here my guy is ~$60
Yap yap ya I can hear it now what kinda tech would work for so cheap but
save your chompers.
yep he's the subject of 2 lawsuits and several complaints to the BBB.
But he's paid his fucking dues and beings as he got t-boned by a sheriff's
deputy and sitting pretty happy working by himself instead of running 5
techs and 7 trucks then he can pick and choose.
Well, if you don't know which thermostat to use.... maybe that knowledge is
part of the reason why HVAC guys get training, and experience?
Why should guys go through apprenticeship and seminars, and then tell you
for free what they paid to learn?
The heat pump will be cheaper heat that the resistance heat just about all
the time. Natural gas heat becomes cheaper sooner. Get a natural gas
backup if you really want to save when it gets real cold. And they will set
it up so it completely cuts over based on an outside temp.
I understand what you are saying...but the problem isn't what is cheaper to
use to heat...the problem is the heat pump still running when it no longer
can bring the home to the desired temperature because when it runs below a
certain outdoor temp the indoor temp decreases when it runs.
I'll just need to pony up the money for an outdoor sensor and a stat that
will lock out the heat pump when it no longer can provide heat that
contributes to a rising indoor air temp.
You can do that if you want but what they are trying to tell you is that the
heat that the heat pump is still contributing to the whole mix is still
cheaper btus than the resistance heat, pretty far down the outdoor temp
scale. In other words you take the heat pump out of the equation and you
will have to make up the portion of the heat that it was generating with
Resistance heat is usually the most expensive btus there is unless you're
getting a real deal on electricity.
Yes, it would be fairly simple to add an outdoor thermostat to turn off the
outside unit below a set temp. If you don't understand it all well enough
to figure out how to do it then you probably should get a pro to do it.
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