Who said anything about a UPS or separating power? I didn't say that. I said to run all the power through a quality filter block (~$20 surplus) and to add an additional filter cap to the controllers DC supply. The filter keeping out spikes and hash and the extra cap reducing ripple should make the controller happier with generator power. Void the controller warranty of course.
I'm wondering if he has tried to connect directly to the furnace with it disconnected completely from the main. Not just with the breaker off. In that case he probably does have a floating ground at the furnace. If you just turn off the breaker and connect the two hot and the common from the generator to the furnace then the main panel will give you an earth ground and tie the common and ground together. Not exactly the way you should do it but it should work and you would not have a floating ground.
There is a mechanical lockout available for several brands of ma> > The best solution is to run the carb dry by turning the gas off at the
You could always try and disconnect the transformer primary leads from the board and hook them up to the UPS and see if that makes any difference. I am pretty sure that the electronics on the board are powered from the 24 volts, so geting proper power there may solve the problem. The inducer, HSI, and blower motor should not be as picky, as long as the power is anywhere near what it should be. I got curious and hooked up 24 volts to a board sitting on the bench with nothing else hooked up. After a couple of seconds it made two clicks and the status indicator gave 4 blinks. I think the clicks were the blower and inducer relays powering because the board saw an open limit-- Goodman board and I think that is what 4 blinks means on those. Other boards may be different, but it would be easy enough to try it first before going any further. Just my $.02. Larry
Christopher; That doesnt make sense... You spray ether or starting fluid into the carb, not the actual air filter. Putting it into the spark plug hole is an option but not normally taken.
The relative who had spray ether into the spark hole, it dried out the cylinder walls. The piston froze up. After breaking the piston loose with a large wrench on the flywheel nut, the motor was able to start up and run for about half second. Then it threw a piston rod.
Ether on the air filter delivers only vapor into the cylinder, much less likely to dry out the cylinder wall.
Well, nobody said he had to spray the whole can into the engine. Just one little spritz will get 'er going if the spark is there (and timed correctly).
Thank goodness somebody came up with this.... I just suffered through the whole thread and began thinking the same thing about half-way through.
I'm one of those guys who does high voltage maintenance as well as controls for a living, and I can tell you that as long as the 24v is clean... then you're good. It wouldn't take much of a filter.
Grounding is also an important issue with any system... particularly one involving an inverter. Most generators have them for voltage regulation purposes.
Grounding at the generator is NOT recommended if you use a transfer switch that only breaks hot legs and not the neutral. If your transfer switch also breaks neutral (rare for homeowners) a generator ground is REQUIRED by the NEC. In ANY circumstance you must carry the grounding conductor from the generator to the service panel. If you don't, serious hazards exist everywhere the electricity reaches.
One more thing... those that have said they 'backfeed' their main panel without the use of approved transfer switch are being stupid and could be held criminally liable if I or one of my employees gets hurt due to your generator feeding HV lines elsewhere. People have gone to jail for it... and if I find someone doing it while doing utility work I'll cut your line, pull your fuses and see that you get the power turned back on sometime in the next century. Buy a damn transfer switch!
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