Greetings to everyone,
I have been doing some research on environmentally friendly ductwork
installations and have seen many arguments against using uncoated duct
board. The disadvantages range from a breeding ground for dust mites
and mold to inhalation of micro fiber particles and formaldehyde.
As I have a newborn in my household and my duct board boxes and lined
flex hose are all black on the inside, I am looking to replace the
entire ductwork system. My ductwork is in the attic and will primarily
be used for cooling a small 1300 sq/ft Florida home.
The entire current system is all lined flex hose connected with
triangular duct board junction boxes and terminated with duct board
1. What are my options for replacing the junctions, plenum, and
register boots with non fibrous duct board material?
2. If it's sheet metal, is there a way to insulate them just on the
outside up to R6?
3. My longest current flex hose run is about 11 feet. Is it possible
to design a system using only flex hose that is properly sized?
Plenum =======|Triangle Junction|
5Ft.|| |============|Boot 2|
|| 11 Ft.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions,
Flexduct is fairly inexpensive, so cleaning it doesn't make sense to
me. Especially because the entire sytem is now flexduct. Also, my main
objective is to get away from the my filthy fiberglass unlined board
that my boots, plenum, and junctions are fabricated from.
I am currently looking into Johns Manville 'superduct' board. It is
lined with protective coating on the airflow side. If I can get a few
sheets of that, I could make my boots, plenum, and juntions.
Thanks for the response,
Moe Jones wrote:
Bubblewrap doesnt meet building codes in many areas. Tin and flex in
Ca requires R-8, which so far nobody's stocking....code has been in
effect 8 mos....
Dmitry, visit Loews or home cheapo and check out the sheet metal
T-Wye's in the hvac section. Add volume dampers to the branch legs,
then all new flex. Feel free to insulate all sections of duct as
thick as possible.
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