May be too late. I put my premerge down around April 1 - Northern DE.
Rule of thumb, put it down before forsythias bloom.
The Scotts stuff normally contains rye which comes up fast but better
seed in it lags behind.
Also true. Bluegrass is very slow to germinate (usually 21-25 days).
Almost any bluegrass seed mix has some perennial rye in it as a "nurse"
grass. You see green, you're happy. If the bluegrass takes well, it
eventually crowds out the rye. And there's nothing wrong with that,
it's as Jimmy Durante used to say, "the conditions that prevail".
I'd wait until next spring. There is only a short window for applying
pre-emergent crabgrass killer... once the crabgrass seeds sprout it's
too late... read the directions for when to apply in each zone.
Crabgrass pre-emergent has nothing to do with turf grass, it only
prevents crabgrass seed from germinating. For this season all one can
do is dig up grabgrass by hand... defoliants work but then there will
be lots of large bare spots.
I find the best and non toxic way to keep crabgrass and other weeds down
to a minimum, is to put down a fast growing perennial grass seed like
rye or a tall fescue in early spring that does not spread by stolons.
The faster growing grass tends to over crowd the slower growing weeds.
I have had it with the so called slow growing Kentucky Blue Grasses or
any grass that spread by the stolons. It is much easier and far cheaper
to over seed the yard each spring than to use the old WEED and FEED
toxic garbage. With grass that does not spread by stolons, it is also
easier to maintain a natural looking edge without those plastic or metal
edging materials 6 inches in the ground.
My opinion - the rye grasses look better than the blue grasses.
A nice organic yard will take a few years to get but worth it.
Ok, I'm off my soap box now. Start the insults I can take it!
I've no idea what you consider a pasture... to me a pasture is land
used to keep/pasture livestock (not a lawn area) typically more bare
ground than green, which is why farmers constantly move livestock from
pasture to pasture, to give the green a chance to recover. In very
early spring my lawn areas are short brown grass with large areas
covered with snow. As temperature rises the snow melts and the lawn
areas green up and begin to grow. I don't base my first mowing on the
height of the growth, I wait until the ground becomes dry enough to
support the weight of a tractor.
Looks good. Once it's fenced and contains livestock then it will be
considered pasture, but right now I'd call it a meadow. By mid summer
is is filled with wildflowers? My meadow used to be a pasture, the
last owners raised goats and sheep, had some horses too. On all my
mowed areas they grew hay. In late summer I rough mow my meadow
(about six inches high), this keeps the meadow healthy, helps it seed
and allows for germination come spring, otherwise it would become all
clumpy with the previous years dead growth and fill with brush. You
may not want to fence your entire meadow for livestock, maybe just an
acre around the barn... that should be plenty for a couple three cows,
and I'd cross fence it in half so that part can rejuvenate. Cows will
stomp all their area down to bare ground so that when it rains you'll
lose all the topsoil and soon have mostly exposed rock, that's what
occurs with every New England dairy farm. I'm in the Catskills, where
Life in the country is better :)
The land was used for hay the last five years. Only a third will be
fenced off and that will in three sections for just one Jersey Cow and
Calf. I am from Michigan, I moved here 12 years ago on 24 acres. I
purchased the land from my neighbor (He still owns 300 acres). Since I
was city mouse and learning to be a country mouse and I did not have the
equipment, time or money to maintain the land, he farmed most of it. My
neighbor 73, is retiring and his kids no longer want to be in the dairy
business. So I am now slowing getting equipment and just having a small
personal use hobby farm. Just me, the dog, chickens, bees, cow and a
calf. I am in way over my head! Now reading books on cheese making :)
That's a lot to take on all on your own, go slow with taking on new
projects lest it all gets away from you. Working land can be very
time consuming, tiring, and costly, I'm sure by now you know that farm
equipment is pricey to buy and and to maintain. Good luck.
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