Lawn; Thinking of starting from scratch

I understand the point you are making and I think it is more a matter of semantics rather a difference of opinion. The term "fertilizer" is typically used to refer to an outside source of plant nutrient requirements - other than those found naturally occurring in the soil - and usually one which offers a ready supply of one of the big 3. As I understand your interpretation, peat, while it has virtually no remaining nitrogen content, would qualify as a fertilizer because it certainly makes the environment more hospitable to those organisms which generate nitrogen as a byproduct of their existence and thus provide this necessary plant nutrient.

One can reasonably argue that all organic soil amendments can be looked at in this fashion - all offer some, typically very limited nutrient value. Their true value is in their ability to improve soil fertility and tilth by providing organic matter and thus hosting increased populations of soil organisms, increasing pore space and improving drainage. While peat may have no significant nutrient value - less than 1% nitrogen, no phosphorus and minimal potassium - the same can be said of composted hog, cow, poultry or steer manure. Christopher Starbuck was right on in his statement that peat is equally as good as steer manure for soil enrichment, but neither one does much in the way of providing supplemental nutrients, specially the nitrogen which most turf soils lack. Personally, I'd find peat less efficient than composted manure as an organic lawn topdressing because of its difficulty in rewetting once it has dried out, the slowness with which it further decomposes and its tendency to decrease soil pH, something which further defeats the purpose of growing a healthy lawn.

Thank you. pam - gardengal

Reply to
Pam
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You should read the instructions on the whiskey bottle, it's addling your brain...

chemical peddling idjit!

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WEEDS ? Apply to actively growing grass and broadleaf weeds. ? Allow at least 3 days after treatment before tillage.

PERENNIAL WEEDS Apply this product as follows to control or destroy most perennial weeds: NOTE: If weeds have been mowed or tilled, do not treat until plants have resumed active growth and have reached the recommended stages. Repeat treatments may be necessary to control weeds regenerating from underground parts or seed. Repeat treatments must be made prior to crop emergence. The addition of 1 to 2 percent dry ammonium sulfate by weight or 8.5

Canarygrass, reed / Timothy / Wheatgrass, western?Apply 2 to

3 quarts of this product per acre. For best results, apply to actively growing plants when most have reached the boot-to-head stage of growth. Allow 7 OR MORE DAYS after application before tillage.

Bindweed, field?For control, apply 4 to 5 quarts of this product per acre west of the Mississippi River and 3 to 4 quarts east of the Mississippi River. Apply when the weeds are actively growing and are at or beyond full bloom. Do not treat when weed is under drought stress as good soil moisture is necessary for active growth. For best results, apply in late summer or fall. Fall treatments must be applied before a killing frost. Allow 7 or more days after application before tillage.

Bermudagrass, water (knotgrass)?Apply 1.5 quarts of this product plus 0.5 to 1 percent nonionic surfactant by total spray volume in

5 to 10 gallons of water per acre. Apply when water bermudagrass is actively growing and 12 to 18 inches in length. Allow 7 or more days before tilling, flushing or flooding the field. Fall applications only?Apply 1 quart of this product plus 0.5 to 1 percent nonionic surfactant by total spray volume in 5 to 10 gallons of water per acre. Fallow fields should be tilled prior to application. Apply prior to frost on water bermudagrass that is actively growing and 12 to 18 inches in length. Allow 7 or more days before tillage.
Reply to
Tom Jaszewski

OK group hug.... :>) (or would we be accused of being religious zealot greenies?)

Reply to
Tom Jaszewski

Get that tree out of the middle. ;)

Reply to
Moparholic

As an aside, you don't need to till real deep, two inches is plenty. The drawback to deep tilling is it will have sink holes from rain, and it won't support foot traffic, or the lawn-mower, without rutting.

Good luck, this is the best time to do it.

Reply to
Moparholic

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