Yep, I agree completely.
Absolutely the only thing that has a chance of working.
I've tried everything else. If read the deer don't like this,
they don't like that. Well, the truth is, they may not like some
kinds of plants, but they'll eat them anyway.
Last year I put up a 6 foot high fence:
I have high hopes for this working.
Yes, yes, yes my electric fence works great for my raised vegetable
gardens but I was hoping for something a little more attractive for my
rose garden. I too have tried everything else so I guess I will have
to fire up more juice.
I know, I read 10ft is what's required.
I'm hoping the dense vegetation on both sides of the fence will
help. In places where there is a clear landing zone now I plan
to add plantings or other obstacles.
Most of the deer I see around here are accompanied by fawns.
I hope the fawns can't jump the 6 feet high.
If the town allowed 10 foot fences, I would have built one.
On Sat, 23 Jan 2010 10:06:05 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
That's a nice looking fence. You could have gotten a bit more height
by raising the sections another 6" off the ground, deer wouldn't fit
underneath and they don't dig. But most importantly having more space
underneath would facilitate mowing/string trimming... I learned that
the hard way by placing my fencing too close to the ground and then
having to reset it or live with weeds. I truly hope you didn't set
your wooden posts in concrete (sure looks like you did), the concrete
will hold water in the posts and they will rot within less than half
the time they would have set directly into the ground... you can set
metal posts in concrete but never wood (if you're concerned with wind
simply use larger posts, the next size doesn't cost much more... and
you wont need to dig nearly the diameter hole as for concrete), and
occasionally a wooden post will prematurely rot in the ground (could
be a fault in the lumber), you want to be able to jack it out easily
to replace it, can't do that with concrete. Also if you live where
the ground freezes wooden posts set into concrete are much more prone
to heave. Next time you want to build a wooden gate check out the
various metal gate kits... makes for a far sturdier gate and a lot
easier to build. Typically wooden gate posts are 6" X 6"... wooden
fence corner posts are 5" X 5". Who advised you to set your nice
wooden posts in concrete?
I used this gate bracket kit on my vegetable garden gate; very strong,
maintains perfect squareness without cross bracing, hinges are
integrel and trouble free, makes a gate very easy to build, and very
inexpensive: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page 584
I don't know where you got your information about wooden posts, but
what you say and what actually happens are two different things. I
have been using wooden post set in concrete for y e a r s (at least
45) and none of the things you mentioned ever happened. If yours are
heaving from frost, you probably did not set them correctly. You
know, I hope, that you set the concrete below the surface level of the
ground so they don't heave.
that's true. i set my treated wood posts into concrete and they still
seem fine after about 7 years now. there is no sign that they are
deteriorating yet. i also set the concrete a little bit above ground to
keep water from collecting around the post. but since i am in zone 7b,
i don't have to worry much about heaving.
The town says 6 feet is max without variance.
I don't think I would have gotten a variance.
I don't have anywhere the fence meets the lawn.
The only thing growing up to the fence are the pacasandra.
Much of the back yard is pretty dark, nothing grows.
The few weeds I have to pull any way.
The entire fence and gate are pressure treated.
The 4x4 posts are specially treated for being in cement like that.
I think I'm down deep enough to avoid frost heaving.
There is gravel under each post and the concrete slopes away
from the post.
The fence is going thru it's first winter but the gate has seen
a few winters and hasn't moved. So I hope I'm okay.
I installed one 12 foot section of a vinyl fence and gate on the
other side of the house. It's nice but I decided I'd rather
look at wood than vinyl.
it might be too late to get another fence now. one thing you could do
it to add about 2 more feet of net fence on top of the wooden fence.
the net fence is nearly invisible but the posts supporting it might be
unsightly. you can use thin metal/iron rods as posts to support the net
That's plan B. Well, by now, probably plan J or K...
I think the neighbors might complain if they have to look at it
but in the summer we get enough vegatation that they won't see it.
I can put the netting up and take it down as needed.
well, then you have dogs in the garden. that's not ideal either. my
dogs like to dig nice cool pits to nap in, for instance, & they never
look at plant labels...
and it depends on the dog. my Malamute (a breed known for it's
strong prey drive) only chases coyotes. he'll sit and watch the
squirrels eating at the feeders in his yard. they can be a foot from
his nose & he just watches. when he's loose in the pasture, he runs
down to the llamas, stands there for a minute, then totally ignores
them (but then, dogs do learn that sometimes weird other creatures
are part of their pack). he is afraid of the goats. i suspect deer
fall into the "looks like a llama, ignore it" catagory by association
Kirby is too old to chase anything, Scout is like Chief in not
chasing other animals (he's never even chased the chickens). my son's
Boston Terrier, OTOH, might... she's not allowed loose in the pasture
because she does annoy the llamas, & she *will* get herself stomped
one of these days. fearless is bad when combined with brainless.
dumbest dog i've ever met (& i thought Kirby was dumb when we adopted
him. he's a genius compared to Peanut!)
There are things they don't eat but nothing I know of will keep them
away from the stuff they like.
As others suggest, fence is the only answer and avoid repellents as if
they even work they wash off eventually.
Only vegetable in my garden deer did not eat was onions.
Right, deer won't eat alliums, they won't eat daffodils either. There
are many plants that they won't touch unless they're starving, like
spruce (spruce needles are too sharp, they won't risk nibbling
hawthorn either) but when hungry enough they will eat sharp needled
and thorny plants. And for some reason deer won't eat blueberry
bushes but they will eat the berries, if the birds don't get them
first... I've seen crows take on deer for blueberries and win every
time. The only thing that works to keep deer out is strong fencing,
deer will push through a wood picket fence that's only been nailed. As
to fence height, a lot depends on terrain, unless there is space and
the ground is such for deer to get into a full run they are not going
to clear a six foot fence... and deer aren't stupid, they are not
going to jump a fence into an enclosed space that is too small, they
know how much running space they need to get out, they truly look
before they leap. Deer can leap a great distance but they can't
attain the height some like to think they can. When it comes to
survival deer sensory perception is far more acute then humans... a
deer knows it's physical capability better than any
olympic/professional athlete ever lived. A fawn is taught to run,
leap, dodge and evade from the moment it can stand. I've watched new
born fawns go through their paces together for hours, it only looks
like frolicking to humans but their every movement is deadly serious
business, to deer it's the difference between life and death. Unless
they are being persued by a pack of coyotes a six foot fence will
definitely keep deer out of a typical tract home yard, and if being
persued by preditors deer are not going to stop to snack.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.