ok, i would like to plant some garlic (with the rest of my garden [tomatoes,
carrots, onions, lettuce, mics. herbs, bush beans, brocolli, cauliflower,
cukes, radishes, cabbage, mustard greens and corn]i live in Florida, land of
the year round garden) and i haven't a clue on how to start
i do have a bulb i picked up from the grocery..can i just nab a clove off
and get it in some water?
what is the official process for growing garlic?
I planted the toes 8 years ago and they still come up green in the
winter and die off in the (hot) summer. Never harvested it though,
just grew it solely as a companion plant for my roses. Plant the toes
directly in the ground. They like cool weather.
Some garlic is harder than others so it depends on what zone you live in
and what zone the garlic you purchased was grown. The garlic is worth a
try. In zone 4 we plant it after the first frost. I plant it as deep as I
can get it with my finger. Harvest next fall when the plants starts to
turn brown. Good luck
supposedly some grocery store garlic is treated with a 'sprouting'
inhibitor, but if yours has a green growth, then you should be good to
go. I just put some nice non-dried out cloves in some dirt and they grew
fine. I also haven't harvested it, it's just hanging out with my
tomatoes. (SE Virginia).
I don't know what a 'toe' is.
Optimum sprouting temperature for garlic is 40F, so after you get your
garden cleaned up just plant the cloves. They will develop roots this
fall, then when the ground freezes (assuming you're in one of those
zones) they will go dormant. It's OK if they freeze, but to avoid having
the freeze/thaw cycles heave them out of the ground, mulch them.
You can plant garlic in the spring, but if it gets a head start from a
fall planting the heads will be larger.
The leaves are flat. About a month or two after they start growing they
will send up a flower stalk (around June in MA). It's round, so you can
tell it from a leaf. Break it off or it will inhibit bulb development.
You can chop up the flower stalk for cooking.
When the leaves are about 30-50% brown (late July in MA), dig up the
heads and place them somewhere to dry. Too much sunlight will make them
turn green (like potatoes), but some sunlight will keep mildew from
forming. If the heads grow too long in the ground the paper will split
and you will get dirt into the heads. Not a real problem except you have
to spend more time cleaning the garlic for food preparation and they
don't look as good.
Like all the alliums, garlic is a heavy feeder. Give it lots of
fertilizer and keep it watered well if the weather gets dry.
A friend gave me a sampler of garlics that she got when she attended a
garlic festival. The instructions that came with them are pretty much
as you describe except that it says no water after June 1.
On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 14:57:26 -0400, John Bachman wrote:
That's how we do it in N.Y. We have a Garlic festival in the Hudson Valley
every year. I've yet to go to one though. I've been growing a little for
the past 5 years. Usually around 25 plants a year on average. Takes up a 1
X 4 foot space. I plant 2-3 inches apart and 2 inches deep.
Not sure about your region, but I live in Texas Zone 8b with mild winters,
ground never freezes and I have success with California Early and Morado
Gigante. Bulbs from the grocery store are usually California Early, but they
may treat them to prevent or help delay sprouting during storage.
It's best to buy bulbs with the largest cloves you can find.
Do a websearch for "growing garlic" or something like that. There's
a place in Texas that sells seed garlic that will grow well down south.
(I lost the bookmark when my good computer had a stroke.) They
have instructions how to grow it, recipes, t-shirts, etc. on that
website. I can't, for the life of me, remember the name of that co.
You don't have to soak the cloves in water. Prepare a spot in your
garden and plant the individual cloves with the flat end down as deep
as your second finger knuckle. Cover over with a 2 inch layer of dry
grass clippings, water when ever you feel like it and you will see
green shoots in about a week or so. Let grow until early summer when
all the garlic leaves are brown except for 3 or 4 and then dig them
up. Wash off the dirt and hang in a dry, shady, airy place until the
skins are dry and papery. Garlic from the grocery store works OK,
maybe not as well as the varieties from a seed source selected for
your area, but a heck of a lot cheaper. Very easy to grow.
Softneck varieties will be best for your area. They have lots of
flaky skin, and usually many small cloves. Stiffneck varieites are
mostly planted in colder areas. They have larger, fewer cloves but
the skin is thin, so many people say they don't store well (I deny
this allegation...stiffnecks store extremely well as long as they're
dried out). Never wash garlic to clean it (this will certainly
attract mold). Simply peel the dirty outer layer to gain a clean
It might have growth inhibitors, which will make it a pain in the neck
(a stiff-neck? hehe :) ). Buy from a local organic grower or order
form a catalog. Get bulbs, dont get seeds.
Depends on where you live. Warm climates are good for softneck
varieties (think Gilroy, CA)...those can be planted in the spring or
just about any time of year. Colder areas (where the ground freezes)
need to plant stiffneck varieties in the fall. To harvest big bulbs
requires lots of everything....lots of soil nutrients, lots of sun,
and lots of water (more water makes weaker but bigger bulbs)
check out www.thegarlicstore.com
I bought some elephant garlic & also korean garlic to plant this year. The
former's cloves are bigger than most bulbs I have EVER seen.
"Come into my garden, my flowers want to meet you!"
Elephant garlic is, of course, a different species, Allium ampeloprasum. To
Elephant garlic is less pungent, but contains a pleasing delicate "garlic"
flavor that makes it ideal for use in fresh salads, casseroles, etc.
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