On Monday, May 19, 2014 12:45:13 PM UTC-7, Brooklyn1 wrote:
Great site. Thanks. One more q: Where it discusses rooting pups..
) "Many aloes produce pups. When the pup is fully formed, detach it from th
e mother plant, let it callus over for a few days in a cool, dry area, and
pot it up. If it has roots, pot as you would a regular aloe, allowing for t
he fact that it is smaller and should be in a suitably sized pot for it's s
If it has no roots, let it callus over, place the cut/broken end ON the soi
l, and support it with top dressing. DO NOT WATER IT-it has no roots, so wa
tering the soil will likely cause rot. Instead, mist it every few days. Roo
ts should start forming within a month. When growth is evident, it can be w
Would this also apply to BIG cuttings? Sounds like, but want to be sure.
When my Aloe vera becomes too overgrown, I take leaf cuttings; but stem
cuttings are likely better. Upon cutting, I immediately dip the cut
surface into rooting hormone powder, to coat not only the cut but to at
least 1 inch above the cut. I then let the cutting dry for about 2 days
before potting up.
For these cuttings, I use a potting mix that is about 2/3 coarse sand
(washed plaster sand is available at most building supply yards) and 1/3
peat moss. Even though this mix drains well, I keep the mix moist but
never wet. I use a small plastic pot (about 1 qt). It takes about 6-10
weeks for the cuttings to root.
After roots have formed and are well visible when the pot is removed, I
move the plant to a larger clay flower pot. I use the same 2/3-1/3 mix
plus some bone meal and a slight amount of blood meal. A. vera does not
require abundant nutrients. I add a half-handful of my own compost to
the mix to "inoculate" it with organisms that will make nutrients in the
bone and blood meals available to the plant.
All this also works with orchid cactus (Ephiphyllum).
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
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