Is it an acceptable way to hook up a generator without plugs?

You are essentially running a fire hazard on a wooden pallet right now. Using a wrench to clamp down crimp connectors is a massive failure point becuase those connectors require a specific crimping tool to create a gas-tight, mechanical bond. A wrench just flattens the sleeve, leaving gaps where oxygen can get in and cause oxidation. Between the vibration of the Honda engine and the heat from the current, those wires are going to wiggle loose and start arcing in no time.

And trimming that insulation with scissors likely did more damage than you realize. You almost certainly scored or cut some of the copper strands. When you reduce the cross-sectional area of the conductor like that, you create a **high-resistance** point. It’s like putting a kink in a garden hose, but instead of losing pressure, you get extreme heat. If you run a high-draw tool like a circular saw or a compressor, that connection point coud easily get hot enought to melt the remaining insulation or ignite the wood pallet. The fuel setup makes this ten times worse. Having an open fuel line and an external gas can inches away from exposed, vibrating electrical connections is a recipe for a disaster. Gas vapors are heavier than air and will pool around the base of that generator. One tiny spark from a loose crimp and the whole thing will go up. It’s not worth the risk just to avoid buying a ten-dollar plug. You need to shut that unit down and find the proper NEMA-rated plug. If it’s an old Honda, it’s probly a twist-lock style like an L5-20P or L5-30P. You can find these at any electrical supply house or even most big-box stores if you know the configuration. Scrap the crimps, cut the cord back to fresh copper, and wire it into a real plug. It’s the only way to ensure you don’t burn your tools or your property down.

I’ve definitely nicked some copper strands using scissors before on smaller stuff, but I never thought about it causing that much heat. That sounds like a total nightmare. If the labels on an old generator like that are worn off, how do you acutally figure out wich NEMA plug is the right one? Is there a way to measure the outlet to be sure?

Also, would those vibrations eventually just snap the brittle copper if it's already scored? I'm trying to learn how to do my own wiring safely and this thread is making me realize how many tiny mistakes can turn into a huge fire hazard.

To ID the plug, grab a NEMA chart online and compare the prong configuration. If it's a 3-prong twist, it's likely an L5-20 or L5-30. You can use a ruler to check the diameter of the receptacle face to be sure.

Another thing—check if those terminals are actualy behind the unit's circuit breaker. If you've tapped in before the protection, you're essentially running without a fuse. If a tool shorts or you overload it, that cord is gonna melt into a puddle before anything trips. It's a quick way to cook the windings in a classic Honda that isn't easy to replace.