I don't have a use for that particular wheeze, but I did something similar
by cutting a 1/2" square drive 6" extension bar in half and welding the two
bits into a 3' length of 1/2" water pipe. Great for when you need to get
more leverage by clearing bodywork etc.
That's a fair point about effectiveness of electric showers. In the
en-suite loo, I put in a power shower (Trevi mixer and Stuart Turner pump)
which makes for a pretty good deluge. The pipework for low pressure hot and
cold was easily accessible (airing cupboard other side of the stud wall) as
was a mains supply for it - so didn't even consider an electric in there.
The only reason I'm putting that Triton electric in the main bathroom is in
case anyone is staying and wants a shower at the same time (power shower can
empty the hot water tank pretty quick).
- You can wire anything you want under SI2006.
- You do not need to be qualified.
- To install a NEW shower & final circuit is notifiable and you would
need to contact BCO.
- To renew an EXISTING shower of the same wattage it is a NON-
You can download SI2006 from ODPM website, might be SI2010 now but the
same applies. Readable for a gov't doc except it is written by cash
under table civil servants who made a completel dogs breakfast of it
whilst parliament merely rubber stamped "P1" and john prescott shagged
something on his table at the taxpayers expense. SI2004 was a joke and
merely reflected appropriately on the IEE's decline.
Key thing about a new shower is 1) existing suitable supply re DNO
fuse to CU space 2) RCD protection 3) MEB & Supplemental uptodate
unless all circuits in bathroom have RCD/RCBO protection 4) correct
isolator 5) correct size of cable re voltage drop, adjusted CCC) and
6) correct materials and workmanship at installation. Route may
require use of 10mm or even 16mm FTE, both of which are cumbersome to
work with. It is not a complex nor trivial exercise, it is an
important amount of design and often a rather cumbersome install
considering a) location b) getting there c) getting everything else
done re ventilation.
Adding a shower to a bathroom generally requires ventilation to be
improved, typically addressed by installing a light/shower activated
extractor fan. This requires L1+L2+N isolation (not LNE!) if
"externally" triggered by lightswitch.
Additionally "shower" might become "walk in wet room" re say Marmox or
rubber-tray by the time you have finished planning (as opposed to wet
room due to a leak :-) So lots to consider, most of all perhaps is
"electric showers can be like a childs watering can over your head"
compared to a pumped thermal-store shower which is "a real shower".
Thanks for all the advice.
To be honest, I think I'm going to do the plumbing bit myself. Not
hard since theres a bath there at the moment so thats easy enought to
get cold water there.
Electric wise I'm going to get someone in. I'm 'OK' at wiring/plumbing
but not an expert and I dont fancy the combination of water/electric
if anything goes wrong.
Is your bath cold high enough pressure?
Our house is a similar age and the cold basin taps and supply to the loos
are mains pressure, BUT the bath cold is gravity fed from the cold tank,
which gives a balanced supply for mixing.
If yours is the same, you will probably find that your head of water is not
going to get anywhere near to the minimum pressure rating for an electric
shower (typically 1 bar). I *think* a rough guide is 0.1 bar/metre between
the bottom of the tank and the shower - which would mean it would need your
shower to be 10M below the cold tank to get to 1 bar pressure.
What I can tell you is our bathroom has a shower/mixer tap, and the output
from that is pathetic and not enough to wash your hair. However, the good
news if your setup is similar, is you will have mains pressure water into
your loft to feed your tanks, so you can T into that (or into the basin/loo
mains fed cold if that is more convenient).
Yeh. Cold water is there because theres a bath there at the mo.
Distribution unit is about 5-10m away down in the garage. Its a 10 yr
old barratt house so I doubt they bothered to leave any space.
Not prepared to go to the garage to check:-)
And if you are getting an electrician in there is a price difference if he
has to empty a garage to get to a CU.
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