Oh, yes. If you are plasterboard lining a modern block structure, simply
use foil backed, and accept the fact it screws the phones and
radios..but the celotex will do that anyway!
You shouldn't have any problems anyway though if celotexing outside..IF
you make the celotex airtight to the block, the 'cold' surface is the
outer skin of the celotex. But its already got its own vapour barrier.
The walls will be warm. Thats the whole point!
I believe its best to put insulation on the outside,
as then the walls are a heat sink -
the book i borrowed from the library was so good
that i bought it over ebay...
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Insulate and Weatherize: Expert Advice from Start to Finish (Build
Like A Pro) (Paperback)
by Bruce Harley (Author) "There is a lot of misconception, folklore,
and conflicting information about the consequences of weatherizing a
house: ""A house has to breathe-you don't want it..." (more)
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Natural Philosopher
It would tend to even out I believe.
I don't have any figures, but I've noticed thick-walled houses, if
decently draught-free and properly DGd are definitely more temperature
stable than thin-wall modern build. Outside insulation would even out
the temperature swings even more and lead to less fuel being used as
In my own situation, I plan to install outside insulation to 10" thick
solid concrete walls and avoid interior disruption. This, allied with
UFH, should provide a decent cosiness.
On Tue, 05 May 2009 21:29:42 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
I don't know about anybody else, but if I work out how much I have to pay
for every square foot of internal space, then figure out how much of it
I'd lose with 10" of internal insulation, it would take a *lot* of extra
heating to make up the difference.
External is the only way that makes sense, unless you have far too much
room in your house at present. Not a problem I've ever been faced with...
Well the figures suggest it doesn't even out. If your target is say 19C
for the evening period, you will on average be warmer outside those
periods than if the house was a insulated egg carton. The heatloss will
be more, on average.
Here, with 24x7 occupancy, the high thermal mass suits our lifestyle.
Solid walls are not very good insulators, they have high thermal mass
which can help regulate internal temperatures but they have relatively low
In my view inside is probably the simpler method but with the disadvantage
of making the rooms a bit smaller.
Just leaving aside all the opinions you now have about rising damp,
two good reasons to insulate exterior walls such as yours is to 1)
reduce cold bridging which will mean spending more on heating, and 2)
to reduce or prevent condensation which can be a major cause of damp,
probably more so than rising damp.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.