Cost of plans & drawings

What do you think would be a reasonable cost of having an architect draw plans for remodeling a 54 sq. ft. bathroom to replace a bathtub with a threshold-free shower, elevated toilet and a sink that I can wheel under? I want as little alteration to the non-tub part of the floor as practical. The shower will have a "lip" to hold the water in. One contractor has said he can build a small movable ramp for my wheelchair to cut down on how much "sloping" of the floor needs doing. I like that idea.

What are some phrases that a bad or sloppy architect might use in a preliminary review? What questions can I ask him to test his mettle? I've already found two in good standing with the AIA and the state licensing board. I'm in Seattle. Thanks

Reply to
Info
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*Regardless of the experience and quality work of the architect you should not rely on his or her plans entirely. They are only a place to start from. You should also get feedback from contractors and suppliers as to what may suit your needs. Do research on your own to determine what you like and what you need before you hire someone to put it on paper. You may be able to find a contractor who also does design work.
Reply to
John Grabowski

Look up in the Yellow Pages professional associations, find out which architects" prof. assoc. functions where you live, and ask there.

Reply to
Don Phillipson

have you considered a bathroom addition? might be less disruptive and only cost a little more.

provided you have the space......

Reply to
hallerb

This is a difficult project on which to give an absolute opinion and more difficult to give an opinion at at distance. If only the things you note need to be done, a contractor can do that work with your help in setting heights and clearances.

I'm a practicing architect with 40 years experience and I'm not a member of the AIA. These questions come to mind: Will there be adequate space for a wheel chair? Will the door swing cause problems with moving a wheel chair? (Will door handles and latches be accessible?) If things (fixtures, walls, or doors) have to be moved around, find an architect or designer. T

Reply to
tbasc

My city has lots of online drawings for the standards they use for city facilities - everything from seawalls to curbs. The city permit office would be a good place to start.......there have to be lots of modifications made to all kinds of residences, with the owner name/address, architect, contractor, etc. Seems it would be a good way to find features you like. With the right approach, the owner might even let you see the work and could point you to architects. Or ask the building dept. for projects your architects have been involved in and contact the owners for references and tips.

Reply to
Norminn

One can get projects, owners, and contact info from the architects. Building Departments do not usually hand out project info.

General standards are available from a search for ADAAG.

T
Reply to
tbasc

If you were going to build a new dwelling, or make a major renovation to an existing one, I'd recommend an architect. However, since your remodel is small, a good licensed contractor would know the relevant codes, and so long as you are not moving a bearing wall, I should think that the inspector would be agreeable to ADA compliant measurements, whoever provides them. I would bet you a five dollar bill that if you called said inspector ahead of time, he would work with you and the contractor so that everything would work out to the best.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

"Info" wrote

I have no idea.

I dont think though you need an actual architect for this but a contractor who knows ADA access standards. You do not need to go with the exact ones for public bathrooms but sounds like you want something 'close as you can get' and functional for you.

Yes, the slope can be worked. It's easiest if the bathroom is on slab construction actually. The same stuff people use to 'level a floor' before adding tile to the top, can be gently graded to create that slope to the shower drain. You will not need much slope.

The sink is easy. You just need a pedistal sort (sorry, I do not spell well). The toilet isnt that hard either unless you need it moved. They just use an extender for the pipe trap and raise it up. You'll need to add grab-bars but havent given enough information on the layout to tell just what would be needed there. Normally toilets in houses though are flush at one side to the wall so you add one there, then may need one on the other side depending on the layout (by the sink perchance?).

In some ways, what you want is what I had in my apartment in Japan. The 'bathroom' was a walled enclosure about 5x7ft with a drain in the center and a tub at one end. The shower fixture was to the side of the tub (since there, you soap up and shower down before you get in the tub to soak). It was a shower massage sort of spigot with 3 holder heights you could hang it on (one way up, one middle zone, and one for toddlers or perhaps pets, that was about 3 ft up).

I am contemplating shifting my main bath this way though not so as to roll a wheelchair into the shower. I can get a wheelchair in (thinline sort, not the monster 36 inch sort) but the sink enclosure has to go. A pedistal sink would make enough room and a grab bar along the wall of the toilet would do it.

I have a progressive sort of DDD and have been looking at future needs. Most of my home just by accident is pretty much accessable with very minor adaptions and it would take little to make the master 1/2 bath wheelchair friendly. The tub/shower combo we had put in last year has rails and the shower head has a massage sort of thing with a holder down in reach from a wheelchair from outside. Spec'ed out a floor drain in the center with a slope and it's do-able here for not too much but have to replace all the lovely wooded siding in the room with something tile to make it safe and replace the lights over the sink incase they got sprayed (only electrical in there is the lights over the sink, no outlets).

Reply to
cshenk

I agree on the former writer, you don't need an architect or designer but a contractor who knows ADA requirements and can give you a quality job. Please get 3 to 4 bids with a full description of the work that they will do and do not give any more then 10% as a deposit. Check your contractors out to make sure that they have a license and good track record. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me. I will not charge you for any advice.

I was a contractor and I know all of the stories they use to get more money.

Good luck

Reply to
Anthony

I agree with the others; you need to find a contractor who's familiar with WC accessibility rather than spending your money on an architect. You can get a lot of ideas/info on message boards from WC user sites such as: newmobility.com wheelchairjunkie.com carecure

Reply to
jimbobmitchell

"Anthony" wrote

Absolutely. Also I'd add to my earlier post, what is adaptive for one person, can be detrimental for another.

Simple case in point. I'm 5ft1 tall ;-) so 'handicap accessable toilets' are too high for me. (Plenty of ladies rooms with only 1 toilet so it was made wheelchair accessable). I also have prgressive DDD (back problems, not whining, just explaining). Mobile now, and a too low toilet can be a problem but it's equally hard to have one as tall as ADA makes them. While mobile now, arm rails in *reach* on both sides would be good for me.

Agree.

And check the sub-contractors they use too. My sunroom is lovely and well done, but we got left with some huge piles of clay mud the subcontractor never picked up.

Reply to
cshenk

54 s.f with an existing *standard* tub, huh? I'll presume this is a typical 5' x 10'-8" bathroom. It ain't gonna happen, not enough room to maneuver the wheelchair. I did a residential handicap bathroom recently that had a 5'x5' floor level shower that the dood could wheel right into.

Get your tape measure out, measure your chair, measure how much room you need to turn around then measure the existing bathroom. Your trying to get 50# of stuff in a 10# bag.

BTW: An architect will rape your wallet on this sort of thing. A remodeling contractor can do all of this if you are intent on going ahead with it.

Reply to
creative1986

" snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" wrote

Yes, but he's removing the tub.

Thats similar to what he has. I gather enlarging the room isnt viable.

He'll need a 36 inch at least wide path clear to the toilet and either be able to swing around from front of it (one type of rails works for that but he'll need the arm strenght to be able to safely do that). He'll probably be happier if he can side up to it. Thats where the sink probably comes in. Has to take out the cabinet and do either a very thin one (12 inch depth) with small sink, or pedistal design. I think the units that attach straight to the wall will be more functional for him as he can have it mounted to preferred height and be able to wheel under it nicely.

I think if the shower is right at the entry, sink along the way, and toilet is on far end, with an open cul-de-sac by it and rails, then it will work. Alternative is shower at far end, sink along one wall, and toilet near entry with enough space to wheel around it, and turnaround at shower end.

Reply to
cshenk

A few posters mentioned pedestal sinks, they won't work for a wheelchair user because the footplates will hit the pedestal before you can get near it to wash, or whatever. The sink (as well as stoves) have to be suspended so the user can wheel under it without footplates and armrests hitting anything.

Reply to
jimbobmitchell

wrote

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Was thinking more along these lines (first one may not measure wide enough but shows the idea)

Reply to
cshenk

I do not touch anyone without first checking the state licensing web site and will not commit to anything orally and will agree to the work only after checking real business references. I got the plans from a designer who then tried to bilk me for a $1k retainer. He's gone but I do have the floor plans.

Many insurance companies will not insure a contractor to work in a condo and some of the ones who were here didn't know that, but I got an idea or two out of them.

Proof of insurance must come to me directly from the contractor's insurance company.

In the beginning I had estimates ranging from $15k for a wet room to $45k for a castle. I ruled the first guy out based on his attitude and the last on his price,

I wised up and went to Tub Cove,

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a place about 20 blocks away that specializes in bathrooms. That estimate was $10k with the work taking about a week.

The Homeowner's Club

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here in Seattle sent a guy who also said $10k. He, too, said about one week. I pay them, not the contractor, and they pay him if I'm satisfied. If I'm not satisfied, they "make me whole." We've used them for a couple of $200 repairs and they've been fine.

An architect for TubCove was here yesterday, looked over the place as I explained what I needed and said it shouldn't cost more than $10k. The Home Owners Club architect will be here Dec 3.

Lowe's, Home Depot and Best Plumbing,

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are the next places I'll visit. They'll mostly have equipment, but HD will have contractors' lists so I can get some more input for free.

Reply to
Info

have you considered a bathroom addition? might be less disruptive and only cost a little more.

provided you have the space......

-------

Thanks, but I don't have the space.

Reply to
Info

This is a difficult project on which to give an absolute opinion and more difficult to give an opinion at at distance. If only the things you note need to be done, a contractor can do that work with your help in setting heights and clearances.

I'm a practicing architect with 40 years experience and I'm not a member of the AIA. These questions come to mind: Will there be adequate space for a wheel chair? Will the door swing cause problems with moving a wheel chair? (Will door handles and latches be accessible?) If things (fixtures, walls, or doors) have to be moved around, find an architect or designer. T

----------- We don't need the door so it will be replaced by a heavy duty thick cloth curtain hung from solid grab bar thick rods.

I'm sizing commode chairs to get the dimension needs nailed down

The only handles and latches that will be left will be on mirrored medicine cabinets that my wife will use.

Reply to
Info

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