OK, another idiot newbie question:
Just got my new WWII thin kerf blade today. I'm ready to install it, and am
also going to install a zero clearance throat plate. I have the blank from
Ridgid, just need to cut it.
Is it at all harmful to a blade to cut through a throat plate? Should I use
the old crap ridgid blade to cut it?
I suspect I'm FOS, but I need reassurance.
I asked the group a couple of weeks back. Someone suggested I call forrest:
"What type of saw do you have?"
"I have a 1 1/2 hp Ridgi.."
"And what kind of stiffener should I ge.."
The whole idea is to use that particular blade to cut its own "zero
clearance" insert ... cut away with your Forrest. Be aware that you may not
be able to get the blade low enough, so you might had to use dado blade to
get the cut started if it doesn't already have a slot.
Another way to deal with the problem if you can't get the blade low enough
is to clamp the new insert over the existing one by using a piece of 2x4 to
go across the table saw from front to back and clamp the ends to the saw top
at each end.
Won't hurt the blade at all. And for the zero clearance plate to work
properly, you need to cut through it with the same blade you'll be using it
with. And if you think this means you should have a different zero clearance
insert for every blade you use... you're right.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 02:02:02 GMT, email@example.com (Doug Miller)
I've got zero clearance inserts for all of my blades, but what do other
people do when they have to tilt the blade 45 degrees? Is there a way
to do this with the insert that I'm just not seeing, or do you go back
to the insert that came with the saw for this?
Same method. Make the insert, tilt the saw, lower the blade, place the
insert, and raise the blade, while the insert is being held down tightly, of
course. (just not with your fingers)
If necessary, some of the thickness can also be removed with a smaller
blade, or a router.
Ok, hopefully that got your attention ;) Anyway, from one newbie to
another, please let my painful experience (mostly in time and money --
not blood) be your free lesson on how to make these things.
Swingman and Frank have the right clues as how to do this. I would
use Frank's method. My dado blade had to come up through the insert a
bit before it made a hole big enough for my blade to not catch on the
insert when lowered all the way down. This resulted in a minor amount
of open space, so kind of a "one" clearance insert instead of zero ;)
Anyway, the reason I give the caution is that I tried to do this
without any of these suggestions and almost burned out my motor
(actually I completely burned through the link belt and sprayed
plastic/whatever all over the inside of my saw and spent hours
cleaning it and realigning the motor/pulleys -- plus a new link belt).
Ouch. Don't do this :)
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