Where can I buy a molding head, and cutters/blades for my table saw?

[X]

I'm fixing up an older house, and I'd like to make some repalcement woodwork, and molding myself. Can anyone tell me what company have the best prices on the molding heads, and cutters? I was looking at a set at Sears, and it looked like a good set. The only thing is that it didn't come with the blades I wanted, and they didn't have any other type of blades for sale (at that store).

Is there any books or web sites that show how to put together different combinations of trims and moldings?

Thanks,

Steve

[Charlie Self]

ssmejkal asks:

Don't know about sites to show you how to put them together, but both the Delta and Sears websites should show more options. Get your hands on a Craftsman tool catalog for photos of just about every type available (I think they'll send you one of these from the web site, but your local Sears store will also give you one).

Charlie Self

"I have as much authority as the Pope, I just don't have as many people who believe it." George Carlin

[Rumpty]

Delta has a better/thicker head and the knife attachment method is better.

[nsum]

eBay has them listed ALL the time. That's where I picked up two of them in nearly new condition!

[Mike]

What do you plan to put the molding head on? shaper?

[Bay Area Dave]

here's where I depart from my usual Sears bashing and suggest the Sears molding head. I've used it to get flawless moldings. The 3 cutters are well indexed to the head so that no adjustments are needed. Slip them in the slots and tight the allens; you are ready to go.

Never used the Delta, so can't comment on that one. Id look first to see which brand has the particular profile(s) you need.

dave

X wrote:

[Bob Summers]

I've never had a need for a molding head and I've never used one but I've always liked the look of the Magic Molder.

The inserts are carbide and it's designed so that the inserts can't be thrown out during operation.

Bob S

[GrayFox]

I have a Craftsman. Not too bad for the money depending on how much you're going to do.

[mike]

Steve I have the Craftsmen molding head. Does a good job on most profiles, if you have a powerfeed you will get better results.If not, use holddowns, feather boards etc, take light cuts and you will be okay. mike

[Bay Area Dave]

Mike,

That's what I do. I have a Craftsman molder that works well on my Unisaw with a zero clearance insert I made out of poplar. I place a large clamp over the work piece and cutters to keep the molding from raising up from the table; it merely clamps across the Bies fence. I use two magnetic feather boards to keep the work piece in contact with the fence. Works good enough for what I've done so far.

dave

mike wrote:

[Jerry Gilreath]

Dave, Are those magnetic feather boards worth a crap?

[Bay Area Dave]

I like them, Jerry, because I can use them on either the TS or the jointer and they set up in a couple of seconds. It takes me longer to reach over to the drawer to retrieve them, then to set them up. Some guys don't like them, as I found out when I asked before purchasing, but I find them easy to use and versatile. Can't use them on my router table though; that's laminated MDF. :) They can even be used vertically if you have the metal plate that goes over the TS fence, but that seems like a PITA, (just my opinion, mind you!)

dave

Jerry Gilreath wrote:

[Jerry Gilreath]

Ok, opinions are welcome and count. I had been thinking about getting a couple, but wanted to find somebody that has used them. Do they hold pretty good, are the mags strong enough, how do you get them off if they're that strong??? So many questions, so little time.

[Bay Area Dave]

Jerry, the magnets are PLENTY strong! There is a lever at the back that you rotate either left or right, to force the back end of the tool away from the table surface, thereby breaking the magnetic bond. The only way they won't hold is if you put them on top of a heavily sawdust laden surface. Otherwise, not to worry!

dave

Jerry Gilreath wrote:

[Greg DeBacker]

I'm in a similar situation. I've used a local mill to reproduce some trim put it can be expensive if you only need 6 feet ($75 set-fee + $35 to cut the knives). I looked at the Williams & Hussey moulder but they are around $2000. Sears sells some blades for casing, chair rail, picture rail, etc for a Craftsman shaper/planer (not sure exactly which tool they are for). A set runs about $80.00. What I would like is to find a place that I can send a profile and some blank blades and have them cut knives to match my trim. Does anyone know of a place that does this?

Greg

[Swingman]

These guys will do custom knives for you: