What would you use to seal this crack in a homemade manzanita walking stick?

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On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:43:44 PM UTC-4, Baxter wrote:

s


And the name of that spooky family from Ireland.
You know, The MacAdams Family.
They're creepy and they're craiceáilte Mysterious and uaigneach They're altogether déistineach The MacAdams Family
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wrote:

Nope, it's: The Addams Family
http://www.addamsfamily.com/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Addams_Family
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On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 1:41:08 AM UTC-4, Baxter wrote:

See here:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Q27YiPRiewg

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wrote in

---------- Oregon Public Broadcasting 7140 SW Macadam Ave Portland, OR 97219
Directions to OPB http://www.opb.org/about/directions/
--------- Johns Landing
4380, 4386, 5100, and 5550 SW Macadam Avenue Portland, OR 97239
Johns Landing is one of the leading suburban business corridors in the Portland metropolitan area, offering customers an unmatched business environment and setting with numerous restaurants, hotels, and business support services. With its eclectic variety of shops and restaurants, contemporary buildings, historic residences and upscale condominiums, Johns Landing offers neighborhood charm with urban culture.
http://tinyurl.com/q889b8g
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Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2 is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement. Martin
On 4/1/2015 4:44 PM, Markem wrote:

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Technically, "macadam" is just a crushed rock surface. If tar is added then it's "tarmac".
In modern usage, tho, "macadam" and "tarmac" have become synonomous, since no-one uses plain crushed rock any more (pneumatic tires tend to pull crushed rock apart, whereas steel wheels and horseshoes compacted it further; hence the replacement of macadam with tarmac following the advent of the automobile).
John
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I have crushed rock in my long driveway. All limestone. It flattens out as the weight of tires crush it into place. The small chunks and dust glue the mass together.
I can eat it up with my tractor tires, to much weight on thin ridges that are designed to fit into the ground/mud.
I had granite in the front 600' - it was never put in correctly and is just sinking into the mud. If a pre-mix of fine dust and crushed granite is laid down first - sinks in and forms a solid base, then the rock is added to that stable base.
My driveway is 1400' to the house. Another 12-14 around two buildings and back out the the main driveway. That second section is slowly taking place.
Martin
On 4/2/2015 9:44 AM, John McCoy wrote:

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We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with the oil on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area was all private roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's.
Martin
On 4/1/2015 3:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

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Martin Eastburn wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 22:51:54 -0500:

What they seem to do here, in the Santa Cruz mountains, today, anyway, is spread the gloop first, and then put the rocks on top, and then sweep the loose rocks away.
The rocks ping against the cars for weeks thereafter, sometimes months, depending on the road use.
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On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 10:17:59 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:



I'm not exactly sure what they are doing in my long-cold-winter area, but i nstead of filling the mid-winter pot holes with dark black asphalt, I've se en a few towns use a very light grey mixture of rocks and "I don't know wha t it is" binder. All I know is that the resulting fill is lighter than the grey that asphalt turns after a few years.
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I suspect it is an epoxy resin of some sorts. Many of the quick patches are that way - in a bag until needed - mix it in a wheel barrow and instant patch that glues down even on wet pavement. Most people use a torch stick to heat the hole dry and melt the sides a bit. I used to buy a bag or two a year to fill in areas and even extended my long driveway on one side with it. It was a dead end and had set their machine for the return run just outside of the driveway - the stopping point.
Martin
On 4/2/2015 10:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

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On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:35:40 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:


Since you don't need anything up the sides of the cane, these Soap Box Derb y brake pads could be cut into circles, then drilled for a flat head machin e screw which could be screwed into a threaded insert epoxied into the bott om of the cane.
http://www.soapboxracing.com/browse.cfm/4,9.html
These brake pads are made of conveyor belt material and are about 1/2" thic k. Any similar material should work.
You can see the brake being applied if you look under this car in the follo wing picture. The pad is screwed to a 3" x 3" steel plate at the bottom of a steel shaft.
http://bubbaracing.pbworks.com/f/Img_5715.jpg
A single pad is used to bring 255 lb cars travelling at 25-30 MPH to a stop via downward pressure on the road. They last 15 races or more depending on the road surface. I imagine that they would last a very long time with the relatively tiny amount of pressure - and no real drag - of a walking stick .
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Soft rubber grips good, but wears quickly. Hard rubber will wear better, but will not grip as well. A lot depends on how and where you use it - if you tend to drag the stick over rough concrete or twist it when you put weight on it, it won't last very long. etc.
That said, different brands of cane and crutch tips wear differently - and there's no readily disernable differences in the tips themselves.
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Danny D.-
You may find a tip that lasts longer, but it may have a problem slipping.
How does the tip fail? Does the metal sleeve cut through? If so, look at smoothing the bottom of the sleeve and putting a fiber washer under it as a buffer.
At the handle end, would something like a bicycle handlebar grip work? What about another rubber tip without the metal sleeve?
Fred
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Fred McKenzie wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:50:27 -0400:

slipping.
I think a wine cork tip will fail within a week, but, the rubber cork stoppers that we used in chemistry class may last longer, if I can find them in cheap bulk quantities.

The metal sleeve is brand new (just put on Monday, only yesterday.) What happened before was that the rubber tips wore thin from being used on hikes by the wife. They holed in about a month (often less time than that). I usually left them on for another few weeks, as they still afforded some protection to the wood tip end for a while longer, even when holed.
The metal tip was to prevent wear to the wood, as the stick still works even as a wooden stick. The problem is that it will crack and break over time, so, the point was to put the metal to protect the end, and to make a uniform size for the rubber tip.

A bicycle grip might work. The wife changes hand position, so, it's probably best not to put any grip. The whole point was to enjoy the wood, but, unfortunately, it cracked from being stored in the house, I guess (very dry here in California these past few years).
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On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 11:24:41 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:

Covering up the wood, but a wrap, like for tennis racket handles (in a pleasing color/decor) might be an option....

The "Valley Girl" (decor wrap) option? - just had a wild idea of Moon Unit using a decor wrap on a walking stick (sic).
Sonny
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Danny D.-
I found rubber stoppers at Ace Hardware next to their O-Rings.
Fred
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"Danny D." wrote:

---------------------------------------------- Epoxy and micro-balloons.
1) Open up the crack by removing ALL the failed items you have tried. You need a clean rough surface.
2) Mix up some slow epoxy and wet out all the cleaned surfaces with epoxy.
3) Take the remaining mixed epoxy and add micro-balloons mixing as you go until you have a mixture the consistency of mayonnaise. Using a paint mixing stick or equal, apply thickened epoxy as req'd to fill crack completely allowing 10% overfill.
4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.
5) Wet out a piece of leather and wrap the repair.
No suggestions for tip.
Have fun.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:28:08 -0700:

One problem I failed to mention is that sanding is out of the question simply because the allure of the manzanita is the thin dark bark (which the wife loves as it's one of her favorite woods).
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8747/16798769859_66e9574fa2_c.jpg
Googling what a "micro-balloon" is ... I see they're a fine glass powder. http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/02/stuff_eng_tech_microballoons.htm
Can you buy them at the big box stores?
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"Danny D." wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

--------------------------------------------------------- "Danny D." wrote:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sand off the excess epoxy putty, not the wood.
BTW, if you cover the repair with leather, you don't have tom be so careful how you sand. ---------------------------------------------------- "Danny D." wrote:

---------------------------------------------------------- Definitely NOT, you need to find a fiberglass supplier.
Got a boat builder in your area?
There used to be a couple of major yacht builders in Sweden.
Lew
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