What type of lacquer for spraying?

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What type/brand of lacquer do you use for spraying and where do you get it? Menards has a couple types of brushing lacquer. As I understand it brushing lacquer is thicker and would need to be thinned more. Maybe not a big deal. Does anybody make a lacquer for spraying that would be thinner? I checked the Sherwin-Williams web page and they have 6 different types of lacquers, which one would I use for a clock I am making?
Andy Arhelger
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You will likely need to thin any lacquer you buy Andy. I've never shot a lacquer - or a urethane, that didn't require reducing.
As for what you should chose - you don't give enough information. Post a link to the web page that has the 6 lacquers you're looking at as well as details about your clock. What type of wood? Are you shooting on shellac first? Stain?
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On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 10:59:39 -0600, Andy Arhelger

What you want is Ultima Spray Lacquer from Target Coatings.
http://www.targetcoatings.com/products/coatings/oxford_spray_lacq.html
Waterborne, easy thinning & cleanup, fast drying, no clogging when sanded. Its also water-clear, but tintable.
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wrote:

I just received mine from Homestead Finishing. This will be my first foray into spraying. I was reading the booklet they send with the gun and from what I read a good starting point for something like lacquer is to thin it 50%. I'm curious what your experience has been. I'm going to start playing with my new gun in the next day or so.
For the OP, as for Sherwin-Williams, if you were going to go that direction, they make a pre-cat lacquer that you can get in 4 different gloss levels, IIRC. I also seem to remember them recommending their vinyl sealer as a first coat.
todd
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Yes, Homestead adverttises as another source. I've never been able to get them to answer their phone.
As for thinning: I'm using an Accuspray turbine driven HVLP gun. Most waterborne lacquers, even tho they appear thick, spray fine right out of the can. I dont remember the exact number but I think Target recommends adding a maximum of 10-20% water if thinning is necessary. They also have a "flow out additive", which thins the product and retards drying somewhat.
Thinning to 50% sounds like the older nitrocellulose lacquers shot thru a high pressure gun. 50% with the waterborne finishes would be way too much.
You didnt say what type of gun, however: I have no actual experience with waterborne products and high pressure guns, but if I had to do it that way, I'd start with the finish at full strength and add water until it sprayed properly. You might also need to go to a larger tip. A few minutes experimentation should get you in the ball park.
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wrote:

I've called three times and gotten an answer three times.

Thanks for the info. I've just started reading and haven't even gotten to the Target instructions yet.

I have a Walcom Slim-S, which is a compressor-fed HVLP.

I expect it will take me a bit of experimentation to dial it in. Thanks again.
todd
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wrote:

I have always had great luck with Homestead and think that Jeff is the most knowledgeable person I have ever met concerning finishing. He is a great resource.
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wrote:

That was a part of the reason I purchased the gun from him. I'm sure many, if not most, of those here know who you're referring to, but for those who don't, Frank is referring to Jeff Jewitt. Jeff is the author of several books on the topic of finishing. I have his book _Hand Applied Finishes_.
todd
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Thanks for the pointer.
I bought this stuff and have one coat on so far. It was very easy to use, dried nice, no runs, almost no fumes, very nice. I didn't need to thin it, used it as is. Next coat goes on tonight. Am happy so far. If this works as good as I hope it will be my preferred finish from now on.
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On Mon, 27 Mar 2006 11:41:53 -0800, Andy Arhelger

Glad to hear it worked out for you. I don't know of anyone who's ever had anything bad to say about Target's lacquer.
As you get more into it, they have several other products that you will find to be equally impressive.
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I did look at their other products and some of them look very nice. Trouble is I couldn't find a place locally to get it. I had to mail order it and ending up paying a lot for shipping.
One problem I had was a fine dust that settled on the finish after spraying. I don't think it was actually over spray because it happened on every item I sprayed. I believe there was a fine lacquer dust in the air that settled on things. I could wipe the surface with my hand after and I could see white dust on my hand. Probably my fault, but I am not sure how to eliminate it. The last coat I put on seemed to be better but I an not sure why.
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On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 13:17:23 -0800, Andy Arhelger

uncharacteristic of HVLP so I'm guessing you're using either high pressure or a high pressure conversion gun?
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LP wrote:

I am using an HVLP gun.
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On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 12:46:45 -0800, Andy Arhelger

Hmmm...since I dont know your shop I'm not sure what advice I might offer here. when I said "That dust/mist in the air is very uncharacteristic of HVLP" that wasnt entirely true as there will be some amount, its just usually not much of a problem. What comes to mind is that you need to somehow move the air in your spraying area. Perhaps with an overhead air filter, or a simple floor fan (on low). If you persevere you'll find ways to solve this and other problems and, in the end, I think you'll be very happy with your finishes.
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wrote:

How big is your spray area Andy? If you are working in too small of an area you will end up with a fog in the room and it will settle on your workpiece. Even HVLP puts overspray into the room. A lot of people think HVLP means no overspray but in reality it's usually more like 20%-30% less overspray than a conventional gun, but still a factor to contend with. For smaller pieces - even the size of normal furniture, that overspray may not be a big problem, but for bigger things the overspray becomes quite noticeable. That's why respirators are still required even for HVLP. If the stuff wasn't in the air, you wouldn't need a respirator.
The nice part about lacquer is that you can buff it out and get rid of that stuff. If your spray technique was good to start with and you have a nice even coat on the piece, you can take a little rubbing compound and buff that dust right out of the finish and back to a nice even, shiny finish.
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My spray area is about 9x11. I have an exhaust fan (not super powerful) and a window this is opened a bit. I am happy with the finish and was able to buff out (or simply wipe off) the overspray. I was spraying a number of larger pieces so maybe the volume of the workspace just wasn't large enough. And fan blowing out the window might help. I will try to fine tune the procedure. I have a picture of the finished product I should post.
Andy Arhelger
Mike Marlow wrote:

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Yeah - go ahead and post a picture in the binaries group. I'd like to see what you produced.
9X11 is pretty small. It would be easy to fog an area that small. You might want to take a quick look at how dry your fan is (your spray fan - not your window fan). Maybe you're shooting just a bit too dry and creating more fog than you need to. Or maybe you've got just a bit too much pressure - also creating a bit more fog than you want. Often you can lay on a wetter coat to overcome this kind of problem. Or - if it just wiped off, you can do nothing and just keep shooting like you are. A dust that simply wipes off is nothing to worry about.
I've painted complete cars in two bays of my garage with nothing more than a 24" box fan sealed under a partially opened overhead door, with no dusting problems. I just stick the fan on the floor and lower the overhead door down on it, and then seal the open space with plastic. Works very well to exhaust the garage on the cheap. My garage is 26 feet deep but the area that I drape in plastic to paint in, is about 22X23 or so, which makes it about twice the size of the space you're working in. Then again, I'm shooting a bunch more paint than you are also, and I don't usually shoot HVLP. I'd stick the fan in your window, blowing out and I think you'll find it helps evacuate the room a lot.
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Here are some pictures:
http://webpages.charter.net/aarhelger/clock1.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/aarhelger/clock2.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/aarhelger/clock3.jpg
Andy Arhelger
Mike Marlow wrote:

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LP wrote:

I have got to try that stuff...
Do you know who distributes it, so I can ask my local guys to get me some?
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Off the top of my head Homestead Finishinging is another seller. If you go to http://www.targetcoatings.com they have a rather short distributors list.
I've always just dealt direct with Target. They use FEDEX which is quite quick, and if FEDEX bends up your can Target will replace it instantly no questions asked.
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