Western Red Cedar Grain Problems still!!


Still trying to figure out a way to keep WRC Grain from showing on fishing lures that I am building. I tried Shellac and then dipping the lures in both an oil-based primer and a water based primer......both had horrible grain showing. I also tried dipping the baits in a sanding sealer first and polycrylic first before priming, same results.
I want to stick with the WRC because it's so nice to shape for lures....perfect wood.
Any suggestions on how to get rid of the grain?
thx.
II
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Wet the cedar with water - let dry - sand - repeat. The water will raise the grain and it will need sanding. Two or three of the above should solve the problem.
Dave
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Thanks Dave,
You know I tried that and it was too much work! The grain raised up so high it took me 15 minutes to get it back to where it was. There has to be an easier way.
II
Teamcasa wrote:

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If was easy - anyone could do it! Dave
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There is a better way, I will find it eventually.
II
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I would think several dips of the lure body into a can of industrial polyurethane ENAMEL would seal that piece of cedar. Buy a quart can and dip it , let it dry, then dip it again. Wait a few days, then do it again.
I am not talking about clear poly like Norm uses; I mean the stuff used on oil rigs, metal doors, and things of that nature. Benjamin Moore, and your local Coronado dealer can set you up with some. I am paying about $11 a quart for mine.
Robert
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:
> I would think several dips of the lure body into a can of industrial > polyurethane ENAMEL would seal that piece of cedar. Buy a quart can > and dip it , let it dry, then dip it again. Wait a few days, then do > it again. > > I am not talking about clear poly like Norm uses; I mean the stuff used > on oil rigs, metal doors, and things of that nature. Benjamin Moore, > and your local Coronado dealer can set you up with some. I am paying > about $11 a quart for mine.
As I remember, most plugs were painted with enamel when I was interested in fishing.
$11/quart?
You must not of had to buy any lately<G>.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Hah! Bought some last week as a matter of fact. I can buy either this:
http://www.coronadopaint.com/product/13-line.htm
or this:
http://www.coronadopaint.com/product/137-line.htm
for 10.95 a quart (one or the other may be a dollar higher) my cost plus tax. There are also different offshoot products that are from these main lines, but they are not available everywhere so they don't put them on the website. I have been shooting this on metal doors on a light production basis for a local lumberyard for a while and I really like it. So do they. I mix some good old fashioned Japan drier in it with a little mineral spirits and it shoots like a dream. When cured, it is amazingly hard. All kidding aside I think it is one of the best buys on the market for this type of finish since it can also be tinted to most colors and it is a one part finish. Both of these are extremely abrasion resistant when applied properly.
Yes, I do get a break from the company that sells it to me since I do the finishing on most of their fiberglass, metal and wood doors. Like I said, they are a lumberyard, not a paint store, and the only reason they have this stuff is for me and another (he is commercial only) contractor. Technical assistance from the lumberyard is totally non-existant. But the Coronado rep and I are friends, and he put me on to this stuff, and he helped me get going with it. Since it comes in quarts as opposed to almost everything else I buy that is gallons only, it makes a great option for finishing a single door for a client.
Betcha if you contact your local Coronado rep, he will send you a quart. If you REALLY want he exact number on this product, let me know and I will get it for you so you will know what to ask for when you talk to him.
<VBG!>
Robert
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For this application try epoxy. Make sure its marine rated.
Mike M
On 17 Jul 2006 14:20:04 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Anything you brush/spray/dip on wood that dries by evaporation will shrink down and show grain. To get rid of it (grain) you have to sand the wood as smooth as possible then...
1. Brush/spray/dip on whatever 2. Let the surfacing material dry *thoroughly* 3. Sand as smooth as possible without cutting through the surfacing material 4. Repeat 1-3 until the surface is flawless 5. Do your color coat. Which will have to be rubbed down if you want it flawless too.
The alternative is to use something like epoxy that can be applied in a thick coat and which cures rather than dries. Still have to sand it and that is a PITA too.
--

dadiOH
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Two suggestions: Elmer's Fill-n-Finish, aka Elmer's Wood Filler,or Elmers Professional Wood Putty. Thined to the consistancy of peanut butter (with water), it's easily applied and easily sanded. I've covered deep grains and pits with this. Second; Bondo Spot Putty (Walmart Automotive section). Folks that build hobby rockets swear by these, and they can both give you a glass-like finish.
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Thanks for all the ideas guys, you gave me some things to think about and work on!!!
thx again!
II
'lektric dan wrote:

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