Still trying to figure out a way to keep WRC Grain from showing on fishing lures that I am building. I tried Shellac and then dipping the lures in both an oil-based primer and a water based primer......both had horrible grain showing. I also tried dipping the baits in a sanding sealer first and polycrylic first before priming, same results.
I want to stick with the WRC because it's so nice to shape for lures....perfect wood.
Wet the cedar with water - let dry - sand - repeat. The water will raise the grain and it will need sanding. Two or three of the above should solve the problem.
You know I tried that and it was too much work! The grain raised up so high it took me 15 minutes to get it back to where it was. There has to be an easier way.
I would think several dips of the lure body into a can of industrial polyurethane ENAMEL would seal that piece of cedar. Buy a quart can and dip it , let it dry, then dip it again. Wait a few days, then do it again.
I am not talking about clear poly like Norm uses; I mean the stuff used on oil rigs, metal doors, and things of that nature. Benjamin Moore, and your local Coronado dealer can set you up with some. I am paying about $11 a quart for mine.
Hah! Bought some last week as a matter of fact. I can buy either this:
formatting link
this:
formatting link
10.95 a quart (one or the other may be a dollar higher) my cost plus tax. There are also different offshoot products that are from these main lines, but they are not available everywhere so they don't put them on the website. I have been shooting this on metal doors on a light production basis for a local lumberyard for a while and I really like it. So do they. I mix some good old fashioned Japan drier in it with a little mineral spirits and it shoots like a dream. When cured, it is amazingly hard. All kidding aside I think it is one of the best buys on the market for this type of finish since it can also be tinted to most colors and it is a one part finish. Both of these are extremely abrasion resistant when applied properly.
Yes, I do get a break from the company that sells it to me since I do the finishing on most of their fiberglass, metal and wood doors. Like I said, they are a lumberyard, not a paint store, and the only reason they have this stuff is for me and another (he is commercial only) contractor. Technical assistance from the lumberyard is totally non-existant. But the Coronado rep and I are friends, and he put me on to this stuff, and he helped me get going with it. Since it comes in quarts as opposed to almost everything else I buy that is gallons only, it makes a great option for finishing a single door for a client.
Betcha if you contact your local Coronado rep, he will send you a quart. If you REALLY want he exact number on this product, let me know and I will get it for you so you will know what to ask for when you talk to him.
Anything you brush/spray/dip on wood that dries by evaporation will shrink down and show grain. To get rid of it (grain) you have to sand the wood as smooth as possible then...
Brush/spray/dip on whatever
Let the surfacing material dry *thoroughly*
Sand as smooth as possible without cutting through the surfacing material
Repeat 1-3 until the surface is flawless
Do your color coat. Which will have to be rubbed down if you want it flawless too.
The alternative is to use something like epoxy that can be applied in a thick coat and which cures rather than dries. Still have to sand it and that is a PITA too.
Two suggestions: Elmer's Fill-n-Finish, aka Elmer's Wood Filler,or Elmers Professional Wood Putty. Thined to the consistancy of peanut butter (with water), it's easily applied and easily sanded. I've covered deep grains and pits with this. Second; Bondo Spot Putty (Walmart Automotive section). Folks that build hobby rockets swear by these, and they can both give you a glass-like finish.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.