Hi Guys, I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding compound miter saw. My criteria areas are: 1) Easy depth of cut setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table saw. 2) accurate miter/bevel stops. 3) either a high tooth count blade from factory or a lower price to offset the cost of buying a higher price. 3) laser would be a plus...but again a lower price offset to buy a laserKerf if not included. 4) EZ blade change 5) replacable zero clearance insert.
out dado's with multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table saw.
None of the SCMS I'm aware of have accurate depth of cut stops. That's more of a radial arm saw feature. And I wouldn't want to put any kind of dado blade in a SCMS. Nibbling a dado doesn't produce a flat bottom well
You do have what you need to check for the accuracy you want right? A "simple" compound miter saw might be more appropriate if you want to do really accurate angles etc. but s SCMS will probably give you adequate results - if you take the time to set it up right.
offset the cost of buying a higher price.
The Makita 1212 came with a fairly good blade with high tooth count.
price offset to buy a laserKerf if not included.
Laser will get you just "close". Skip the gimmick
Most of the major brand SCMS are easy
Most of the SCMS come with plastic replaceable inserts The Makita has a pair of adjustable pieces that you can set to whatever blade width you want.
Let's see. I recall my working days mantra - "You want Fast, Good and Cheap - pick two." You've defined conflicting criteria. Pry open the wallet and pay for the features you need. The Makita 1212 comes to about $900 when all the fence height extensions and hold downs/hold ins have been added. Through in another $100 plus for some infeed and outfeed tables and you're almost done. Add another hundred or so for "mircro adjustable" flip stops, a pair for flat ends and a pair for mitered ends and you're close to a low end Unisaw. But it'll be a work horse and, with proper care, do a good job for a long time.
If you find one that meets all of your criteria PLEASE let us know.
You want a Radial Arm Saw if you're planning on dadoing with this tool. No SCMS I've ever seen could accept a dado set on the arbor, nor could it accept a depth of cut setting.
I'm happy with my reconditioned Delta SCMS's stops. It took me about an hour to align the saw when I got it, but I saved $250 over a new saw.
I've never had one, and don't really know what I'm missing. I can't understand how a laser could really make my results better.
My Delta is no more difficult than a hand held circular saw.
Make your own with the original and a router, you're a woodworker, right? Set up the router, and with some carpet tape, thin plywood, and the original, you can make 20 in an hour.
The Delta 36-240 & 250 definitely allow you to set the depth of cut. While you're right about no dado blades I've used my 250 to nibble away dados in 1x & 2x with no problems.
Since I owned good 10" blades I decided to go with a 10" slide. I chose the Bosch and I'm so far very satisfied with my choice. I would say that the depth of cut adjustment is fairly easy but I have not used it with a dado blade.
Compared to the Dewalt I find the angle adjustments to be a notch better. I have recently purchased an orbital sander and I again considered all brands but it ended up being a Bosch again.
I suspect there is still some fallout from when Delta (and others?) portrayed a RAS to be good for planing, drill press, routing, etc.. Sorta like a cheap Do-All machine. Probably were jealous of ShopSmith. Anyone that ever tried to use one for those purposes (that I have talked with) were VERY disappointed with the outcome. It didn't last so that should tell you something. And that back when DeWalt made a hell of a RAS. My father bought one; last machine he ever bought. I always attributed it to the RAS good-for- everything salesmanship.
Not in my case. I bought an SCMS for stationary use in my shop. I have a table saw for ripping, dadoing, and extra-precision crosscutting.
My SCMS is usually used for roughing lumber to length, and crosscuts when precision beyond a 64'th isn't necessary. I occasionally move it, but not to the extent that moving a RAS would be a huge problem. My SCMS is set up with dust hood, board supports, etc...
the makita is about the best saw out there. it does have a depth stop but you can't get really accurate multiple cuts from it. because you can press it a little harder and cut a bit deeper. but as far as I know it is about the only saw that has it.
It just takes a couple of minutes to set up. I've used it for both framing & finish trim applications with excellent results. If I had alot to do then I'd definitely use a router or dado in the TS but for just a couple then it's a no-brainer to just use the SCMS. Try it sometime.
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