Walnut Tree - What to do with it?

[Hoosierpopi]

OK, I cut it down when, according to my "woodsman" neighbor, the moon was right.

Now, since I can't find anyone with a portable mill or anyone willing to transport and mill the logs, I thought to try and save as much as I could reasonably expect to get on my band saw to make boards.

Question is, what do I do with the sections of tree that I've cut up/ out in opes of using them for a project?

Do I de-bark them first? How should I store the logs? Or, should I cut them "wet?"

The tree has been down for three months or so and if I don't do something it will be very expensive firewood.

Can they be stored outside - under some tin roofing, say? Or o they need to be in an enclosed structure? (Hopefully not heated or air- conditioned as there is no room in the house!

Thanks.

[Doug Miller]

Call Wood-Mizer Customer Service 800.525.8100. They can put you in touch with owners of their mills who are in your area.

[Puckdropper]

Hoosierpopi wrote in news:3d28db8c-e12f-4644- [e-mail]:

I'm just getting into doing this myself, so please understand some of the theory and advice is that of a newbie. I'm working with pine, and decided to cut the logs into boards while still green. Thinner lumber will dry to a usable state faster than thicker ones.

Wood will move and shrink as it dries, and the goal is to keep it in one piece and prevent it from checking and splitting. Many people recommend coating the ends with various materials (Latex paint, Polyethylene glycol, DAGS for more) to reduce moisture movement through that point. I used latex paint on my pine, and most of the boards still look good.

The various sources on drying green wood I've seen have recommended storing it outside under a roof or tarp. Good airflow between boards is essential to drying without moisture related problems. Debark the boards before storing. (I usually remove the loose bark with a hatchet and cut the rest off after cutting the log. Some say it will dull your blade faster and they're probably right. It's just too much work to remove it first.)

I've got a bandsaw with riser kit, and this blade:

The 1 HP motor handles resawing 10-11" logs, but it's just about at it's limit. An outfeed table is essential. I used a piece of angle steel and melamine shelving to make mine.

Puckdropper

[whit3rd]

It won't saw well when wet, of course, and you CANNOT dry a whole log. So, if your search for a porta-mill doesn't bear fruit soon, you will have to at least split it into halves or quarters (that takes the worst of the stresses out of drying), and paint/wax the endgrain so it dries without checking.

De-barking and lopping of branches is a start. It might be possible (depends on grain) to tack a board on and guide a circular saw to kerf the log and start the split.

[John Grossbohlin]

You could split the logs into quarters, or more, before using your bandsaw... that would allow you to work with longer, lighter pieces.

Debark first... sticker and air dry afterwards under cover with good ventilation.

John

[tiredofspam]

I had to cut my free gotten wood once when the power company cut a few walnut trees down. They unfortunately cut them in less than 5 foot lengths, so no one would come to cut it. Too short ...

I cut while wet, it was a nasty job. They were heavy because of being wet. The walnut was beautiful , purple, and colorful.

I would not do it again. it was too much work. I had to make wedges to hold the wood open. An infeed and outfeed table, I made a log sled but abandoned that. I just used a chalk line. If I did do it again, I would try a chain saw method. Lots of waste, but less heavy work.

Good luck >

[dadiOH]

1. Cut them into boards now. If you have logs too large in diameter for your band saw, there are rip blades for chain saws.
2. After you cut into boards, there will be very little bark, just on the edges. Leave or remove. Treat the ends with something - parafin, paint, even BLO - to retard moisture loss there.
3. Store outside, covered and stickered, and wait a year per inch thickness of board.

[RogerT]

Just curious...., what does "stickered" mean?

[FrozenNorth]

sticks between boards so the sir can flow.

[RogerT]

Okay, thanks.

[Hoosierpopi]

Thanks - will try that Monday!

[Hoosierpopi]

Thank you. Good information. Will have to find a larger BS tan my 14" Delta for sure!

[Hoosierpopi]

"tack a board on and guide a circular saw to kerf the log and start the split."

Good idea. I've, of course, got a chain saw so . . .

[Hoosierpopi]

Thank you.

[Hoosierpopi]

" what does "stickered" mean?"

Separating the pieces of wood with "sticks" to allow air flow about the stacked lumber to promote more even drying.

[Puckdropper]

Hoosierpopi wrote in news: [e-mail]:

If you're motor's up to it, your 14" can use a riser block for that extra height. Unless you desire a color match, many riser blocks are compatible with other bandsaws. I've got a Powermatic riser on my Jet. (My sister refers to it as a "band aid" because of the yellow strip around the green column.)

Puckdropper