Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?

[Leon]

Yeah, I forgot about that. Just use a Kitchen towel between it and the counter top if there is an issue.

[Electric Comet]

glue it up so you have two halves that will fit in your planer once you have them equal thickness do the final glue up

just keep it flat and do not clamp too tight

[Electric Comet]

does not matter with kiln dried it remains pretty darn stable

if it works why not and if you already have some all the better

[Electric Comet]

white oak imparts certain flavors into the wine as well

[Electric Comet]

dunno how anyone could use a store bought contraption to butcher possums on although i would like to see the ikea photos of the possum with one of their snazzy boards probably add that to the list of things that we will never see

[dadiOH]

Kiln dried doesn't stay at whatever relative humidity to which it was deied, it assumes the RH of wereever it is.

[dadiOH]

Yes. A couple of weeks or more before you use it.

[Electric Comet]

it is not going to matter with a small project like this

[woodchucker]

That's different. It's liquid, not food that needs to be cleaned out. The casks are for turning the booze into quality booze.

Cutting boards on the other hand need to be cleaned of food, otherwise it will get rancid.

[woodchucker]

Sure, it's not that hard. I work across the grain, knocking the high spots down.

Test, repeat. Keep marking , work slowly. You only need to keep taking the high spots down.

Once it's flat, a light pass with a smoother to remove all the scars. Rinse and repeat on the other side. Also, to prevent edge tearout, put a chamfer on the edges before starting. It prevents you from blowing out an edge.

[Markem]

Whisky too.

[Jack]

I have cutting boards I made 40 years ago and use every single day that were glued up with Elmer's Cabinetmakers glue (yellow glue) I still use that stuff but now also use Titebond III, which is waterproof or water resistant. The Elmer's is not water proof at all but on a cutting board, with tight joints, it doesn't seem to matter much. I would use Titebond III today, it's a nice glue, cheap, easy to use.

If I were gluing up something to store outside in the weather, I guess I'd go out and buy Titebond III, otherwise, use whatever you have, it will likely work, that's what I did 40 years ago and no problems whatsoever. If it comes apart, find a woodworker to repair it (you?).

[Jack]

If you plane both halves with a planer, you should have no trouble gluing them up with nothing more than a bit of sanding as both sides should be equal thickness. If you need to plane it again with a router, something is really, really wrong. A light sanding or just a card scraper is all you should need.

[nailshooter41]

Back on the topic of glue and stainless rods, I have a cabinet maker buddy that makes and sells cutting boards with his scraps. He swears he makes as much on his boards as he does the cabinets...

He uses "Eco Glue" and has for about 10 years. He warrants his cutting boa rds again separation at the joints for life! He has been using it in his b usiness for about 20 years and he told me over time he has just gotten bett er with a couple of reformulations.

He told me that since he switched to that, he has NEVER had a joint fail th at he glued with Eco Glue, not a cutting board, counter top or cabinet.

Robert

[Electric Comet]

i doubt the stuff frmo 40 years ago is formlated the same today

[Leon]

Rovert, could that be Eco-Bond Adhesives?

[Leon]

Or maybe this.

[Martin Eastburn]

I use it indoors. Ever hear of 80% RH after a flood or Rainstorm ? We can open up the door and have to wait for the dehydrator works.

My sister has water sprinklers that blew out with an over pressure on the water line. The furniture all but melted. doors off and falling down. Oh - they were at the mountain cabin for a week. Came back with 2" of water in the house and a flood pouring out ever where. It was a massive insurance claim the insurance man did - they installed a pressure regulator on the house as well.

Mart> On 12/8/2015 9:42 AM, [e-mail] wrote: >

[nailshooter41]

On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 11:30:25 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: .

It's this one. Bill (the cabinet guy) is a cranky, hard headed man that ha s to see it, test it, use it, and develop a history with something before h e will recommend it. He completely swears by it, and while drinking a beer with him, he gave me the run down on his testing methods.

To shock test, he glued two pieces of wood together, and bashed the joint w ith a carpenter's hammer until the wood splintered and came apart. The glu ed joint survived.

For stress, he used a "come along" or something similar to rip the glued wo od apart.

He has soaked his glued test pieces in wood, and the glue joints never gave up.

I confess I personally have never used it as I don't know of anyone that se lls it locally, but if I was building a lot, I would sure be looking into i t. Look at the strength tests and comparisons on the page you posted; that stuff is mighty impressive.

Robert

[Leon]

What kind of wood did he soak his glue tests in? '~)

Yes I had noticed the strength tests, Roo Wood seems to be the only one that comes close. But having said that I was surprised to see that several of the glues have as much strength as wood, if not more, when bonding glass and steel.

I probably use as much glue as most anyone on this forum but I learned the hard way with TB that there is a shelf life on this stuff and especially with TBIII you have to keep it mixed. I used to buy it and the Extend a gallon at a time and just over half way the stuff became useless. I wonder at what price it can be purchased and what the shelf life is.