Two Questions on Building Kitchen Cabinets

First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the toe kick?
Second, is keeping carcasses to the minimum with sides built of 1/2" baltic birch a good way to go. In other words, screwing two sides of baltic birch together for a 1" support.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Glen Duff
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On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 11:59:59 -0500, Glen Duff

I build the boxes separately from the toe kicks.

not picturing this. if you mean laminating together two layers of baltic birch for carcase construction, that sounds like overkill.

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Glen Duff wrote:

See this thread from a couple days ago. http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&threadm 64d6d7.0402191019.19f74a%40posting.google.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fsourceid%3Dnavclient%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26q%3DConcept%2BLeg%2BLevelers
-- or --
http://tinyurl.com/3eafz
HTH.
-- Mark
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"Glen Duff" wrote in message

You will get differing opinions on this ... I generally build the kickplate into my base cabinets. I find I get a stronger cabinet that way, and one that will support heavy countertops without fears of racking.
Others prefer to build the boxes and set them on a pre-leveled base. In some installations this will certainly make leveling easier than shimming a row of cabinets with the kickplate built-in ... but I have not had a problem doing it either way.
That said, If I was in a hurry, or doing volume work, the separate base would probably be my choice.

Why double the 1/2" for cabinet sides? If you build your cabinets right, it should not necessary. If you feel you need more width, go with 3/4" ... it should be cheaper in the long run than doubling 1/2".
That said, I always use 3/4" ply for base cabinet sides and floors, especially if you/someone wants granite or marble counter tops.
--
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Here is what I have found. A built in toe kick requires less wood. It takes less time to build the cabinet because there is less cutting. And, it has a cleaner look from the side if it is an end cabinet.
But, what I have also found is this. A separate toe kick is better if you expect the base to subjected to moisture from the floor. That is if the toe kick gets water logged it can be replaced not the whole cabinet. It was easier for me to adjust for the drastic slope in by garage/shop cabinets with a separate base/toe kick. If they are moved to another spot a new toe kick can be built.
So I would say it depends on your needs.
Roy
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Glen Duff wrote:

Not 'zaktly sure what you mean. If you mean, no recess below the cabinets, the answer would be, bad idea onna 'count of the stub factor/the body's natural tendency to want to stand upright but at the same time lean against the cabinet face. In other words, very uncomfortable. 'Sides, only a hack would do something like this on a project so major. Don't be a hack.
Now, if you meant something else, please explain.

It's workable, just different.
UA100
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Are these cabinets built in place?
Glen Duff wrote:

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I am building them in my home shop then installing them in our kitchen.
Glen Duff -----------------
Rick Samuel wrote:

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