True "above router table" bit changes

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I have a shopmade router table with a Hitachi M12V in it. I've added a Router Raizer and an Xtreme Xtension to it and have been happy with both products. The Xtreme Xtension allows for above table bit changing with the use of a single allen wrench and works with both 1/2" shank bits and 1/4" bits with the use of a collar. The Router Raizer is very basic but works, probably not as smoothly as some more expensive lift devices. The power switch on my table is a rocker type switch mounted on the side of the cabinet. The electrical outlet is at bench height so that I can unplug the power cord when changing bits or making adjustments.
Dale

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Wed, Jun 6, 2007, 9:29pm (EDT+12) snipped-for-privacy@bigpond.com (DarrylTunesi) doth wonder: Hi I will need to buy myself a new router soon and would like some advice on which way I should go. Ideally I would like to have ALL operations done from above the table but have not seen anything that can definately do it. <snip>
I'm always kinda amazed, or maybe that's 'dazed', by questions like that. I solved my bit changing problems by making a new router table. I just yank out a section of the top, router attached, change the bit, drop it all back into place. No prob. I'm gonna have to get aound to taking some pictures of that one of these days.
JOAT If a man does his best, what else is there? - General George S. Patton
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Take a look Here
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/media/RouterTables.pdf
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A friend gave me his old Ryobi RE600 3 hp router, when he bought a 3 1/4 hp Triton to replace it. The Ryobi had a defective speed control, and was now a hi speed only router.
I used it for a few years in a Crapsman table that was with it. Height adjustment was always a pain with the Ryobi plunge router.
I decided to mount a router in my TS extension table, and decided to go with the Freud FT1700 2 1/4 hp vs router. It has above table bit changes and above table height adjustment. It works fine. I have it pluged into a swwitch box, mounted under the edge of the table, to prevent accidental activation. The switch on the router can be left on at all times.
The Triton is a nice router. I've used it a number of times, But I couldn't justify the extra cost, for the amount of work I do. I paid $129 for the Freud and the Triton was $214.
I also like that it comes with a 1/4" and 1/2" collets, so a bushing is not needed for 1/4" bits.
My back likes the above table bit changes and height adjustment!
Good luck on deciding!
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On Wed, 06 Jun 2007 21:29:28 +0800, Darryl Tunesi
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Yes.
I have a PC7518 in a JessEm lift and have no problems changing bits from above the table.
I did add an Eliminator quick change chuck which makes it a little quicker and easier and removes any need for the wrenches when changing bits (do need a hex wrench, however). But, bits can be changed fairly conveniently from above the table without the chuck and without modification of the PC wrenches. Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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Darryl:
I've tried two of the newer routers with built-in height adjustment. The first was a Freud 1700. It was a piece of crap. If you do a search, you can find my detailed rant about it, but in a nutshell, it just isn't sturdy enough for daily use. When the motor failed, I sent back under warranty. They replaced it for free, but the replacement is just as bad as the first one. I have since bought a Milwaukee 5625 and a Woodpecker router plate. This system works much better. You do have to reach the collet wrenches into the table at an angle, and with larger bits, you can't really change them from above the table. However, the router plate lifts out of the table easily enough for those times the bit can't be changed from above.
The built-in height adjustment seems to be the weak link for most of these newer routers. If mine fails, I'll probably buy the Woodpecker Router Lift for my 5625 router body and be done with it. Then, I'll get better above-table bit changes, too. Good luck.
Regards, John.
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