Template Routing Web Page

I made a new page for template routing utilizing two bits (top and bottom bearing). This is a technique that I learned here on the wrec.
Comments/suggestions for improving the content? I am going to be modifying (hopefully improving) the page as time goes on.
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Template_Routing.htm
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Sun, Feb 24, 2008, 9:25pm @. (Garage_Woodworks) doth queryeth: <snip> Comments/suggestions for improving the content? <snip> Never tried MDF, I use 1/2" plywood. I 'have' found out I prefer two pieces glued together for my masters.
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Great pics! And since you asked for comments and suggestions, here's my offering:
- show a "before" photo that depicts the tear out when routing against the grain - show an "after" photo that illustrates the result of using your technique
Great job! I'm sure it will be helpful to "newbies".
Cheers.
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On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:59:10 GMT, "toolman946 via CraftKB.com"

A 4" drywall knife is great for unsticking the template.
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Interesting technique. No offense but I don't understand why you go to all that trouble. I'd just cut the entire curve from the template and hit the tearout with a card scraper. One or two swipes and you'll never know it was there.
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i have had some pretty big chuncks fly off from routing grain up-hill. I'm sick of having to deal with it and the risk is always there. It also can be DANGEROUS. It can grab the grain and pull the piece from you. Much safer doing it this way.
No trouble to change a bit. No card scraper needed.
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Easier to just have another router table.
JP
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Dam, I like that! Maybe sometime down the road.
Thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Do five of the same part and get back to us. <G>
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wrote:

Yeah you're right, it would take more time. So maybe I should be satisfied if some of the five have huge chunks missing. <G>
I'd rather spend the time changing bits than repairing (scraping, sanding, etc.) a few pieces.
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Mon, Feb 25, 2008, 6:03pm .@. (Garage_Woodworks) doth sayeth: Yeah you're right, it would take more time. So maybe I should be satisfied if some of the five have huge chunks missing. <G> I'd rather spend the time changing bits than repairing (scraping, sanding, etc.) a few pieces.
When I read this, something hit me, so I went back and re-read your page. When you change the bit, and flip the piece, you're effectively just routing in the other rection. Next time, rather than going thru that, just try feeding the piece in the opposite direction - which will effectively accomplish what you do by changing bits and flipping the piece. Works for me.
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I think the original poster did a fine job of answering my question. I've haven't been unhappy with the result from my router bits so that's why I asked. I'll keep his suggestion in mind when I come to that crossroad. Based on my experience I'd cut 5 with a pattern bit, gang them with a couple of quick clamps and give a scrape or two. A sharp scraper works great on tearout. I've never had "chunks" break off but I'm sure with certain woods it's more of a problem.
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On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 15:35:48 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

I hear ya'!

I climb cut, or take short "nibbles" in the area where the grain is oriented wrong. If the stock is pre-trimmed well, climb cutting is not a big deal at all, otherwise, it's You Tube material.
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Mon, Feb 25, 2008, 9:03am (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com doth sayeth: Interesting technique. No offense but I don't understand why you go to all that trouble. I'd just cut the entire curve from the template and hit the tearout with a card scraper. One or two swipes and you'll never know it was there.
And I wouldn't do it like either one of you. You use what works, and you're comfortable with.
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