Table saw arbor runout is this acceptable?

This evening I measured the one of my plywood blades, the arbor, and the blade support on the right side of the arbor.
The plywood blade was .0013 in runout -5 on the left and +8 on the right
The arbor runout was .0005 (=== in diagram measure at 2 site)
the blade support (000 in diagram, measured at @ site) was .0037, I was able to push it in close to .003 to the right but I can feel no play.
ascii art
@000 <-- supports blade 000 000 == 00 == is arbor ===0 000 000 000
Are the runouts within tolerace for a tablesaw?
Thanks
Alan
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Dear Alan,

<snip>
Um, who cares?
All that matters is how the saw cuts? Does it cut well?
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
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That is a subjective thing, does it cut straight? Sure measureable with the dial caliper to within a couple hundreds of an inch. Do I have a few marks from the saw blade, most of the time. I experiemented with a plain old piece of 2x4 a few times ripping 1/8's of an inch off. With a featherboard about half the time I was able to get no blade marks on the cut off portion. On the waste portion I often had a ring or two towards the end where they seperated.
I will have to work on my technique to push both pieces through at the same time, or perhaps invest in the new gripper to push right by the blade.
I do not own a jointer and am working on getting good enough to not need one.
Alan
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Dear Alan,

Try this product,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page0077&category=1,41080,41162&abspage=1&ccurrency=1&SID It is a blade truing disk that can account for problems with the arbour not being perfectly true.
I also have a new favourite blade, the CMT General. I prefer it to the Ridge Carbide, and I cannot see any difference between it and my Forrest, except that it is cheaper.
With that disk and a top of the line blade, you should get perfect cuts.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq / Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
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I suspect that you have too many zeros - most folks don't have measuring tools to read that level of resolution at least repeatably. If your numbers are truely correct then you have an outstanding TS.
Assuming that your measurements are what I think they represent (13 thousanths), then what you have is fine. Measurement of the blade is useful only for evaluating the blade and its current mounting. You may be able to reduce the runout on that blade some more by careful tuning, but it is not necessary (is the printed blade label bearing on the blade support?).
Measure the arbor and blade support runout several times - to make sure that your process is consistent and that the numbers are repeatable. Look for dings and deep scratches on the mating surfaces (these can be restored by carefull stoning). If you are going to do any corrective action, fix the big numbers first (blade support) - but only after you are sure that you get consistent measurements on several occasions.
Bruce
<-- supports blade

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You are correct I did have one too many zeros there .013 for the plywood blade runout.
I have a dial indicator and magnetic base, just spent some time checking the fence to miter slot, and find it to be .02 from the front of the blade vs the back of the blade. Unfortunately it is .02 closer at the back, so I will likely buy some longer cap screws tomorrow and some small washers to allow me to reset the vega more exactly.
I measured my rip blade to be .028, I will querry the sharpening shop if that is acceptable. I am awaiting a Forrest Woodworker II in 5 days time.
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Alan, can you describe the process you use to make these measurements? Somehow I get the feeling that you may be measuring from the miter slot to the front of the blade then from the miter slot to the back of the blade and reporting the difference as runout.
Can you describe your measurements as "Took 10 readings, average error .020, smallest = .017 and largest = .022".
I don't remember you specifically describing the relative alignment between the blade and miter slot.
About your fence alignment issue - What kind of cut do you get when the fence is moved to the other side of the blade (would this give you .008 gap at the backside of the blade)?
If you fasten the mag base to the miter gauge and run the indicator along the fence front to back - how much play (side to side travel) do you see in the miter gauge (at several places along the slot)? What variations do you see in the fence? If you reposition the fence, are the readings constant? How rigid does the fence lock-up? Now that you have that set of numbers, break down the set-up and go get a cup of coffee and a muffin left over from breakfast. Go back and take the measurement again - why is it different?
Bruce

numbers
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a whole new ballgame now that you dropped a zero!
now the numbers suck!
take it back - the arbor runout is lousy
so is the blade's runout
no wonder you were concerned.
dave
Alan W wrote:

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your arbor runout is fantastic.
your blade runout is also great. I can't believe you are measure to 10 thousandths!
try USING it instead of measuring it.
dave
Alan W wrote:

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