Suggestions on portable table saw

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I am looking for a compact portable table saw for some around the house type jobs. I am currently split on these 2 models.
Craftsman Professional 10-Inch Portable Table Saw 21829
Bosch 4100-09 10-Inch Worksite Table Saw with Gravity-Rise Stand
The Bosch reviews say it is built better The Craftsman has a built in router mount. Which I have a router that I don't use cause I don't have a good table.
I am leaning towards the Bosch, but then I need a router table I will need to buy and store. The Bosch route will cost more. Are there any large negatives for either of these saws??
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Negatives? Noisy, perhaps too small on both counts. I would go with the Bosch over the Craftsman. The Craftsman may have the router feature but I have never been a fan of sharing my cabinet saw with a router table.
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[snip]

Why is that, Leon? I have built a few saws for myself and others. Starting off with a decent cabinet saw, add a Biesemeier T-square fence and take out one of the extension tables and make it into a router platform. The Bies services both the saw and the router on both sides of the blade/bit. Compact and useful.
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wrote: [snip]

Why is that, Leon? I have built a few saws for myself and others. Starting off with a decent cabinet saw, add a Biesemeier T-square fence and take out one of the extension tables and make it into a router platform. The Bies services both the saw and the router on both sides of the blade/bit. Compact and useful.
Becauseeeee, I like to leave my router set up and it can get in the way if I want to have the fence over the router bit. I have a dedicated router table. Additionally my saw is on a mobile base and it moves easily from the extension end and that end would not stay still. The router also takes up storage space under the saw which I use for all the stuff. ;~) Personal preference.
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Sharing a tablesaw extension table is not a real problem for most of us, and if he's using a portable saw, it probably means space is valuable. Still, I liked the Bosch and its stand, though the Craftsman I tried some years ago was better than decent. Currently, I'm using the Ridgid with its stand, and, IMO, it and the Bosch are about tied for first place.
Yeah, the motors are noisier than those in larger saws, but you go up in motor type, and you go up in weight and size. These are job site or portable saws, and are about 500% more accurate, durable and useful than the old lightweights. For the small shop, they are close to unbeatable.
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I know its not one of your choices, but I just orderd the rigid 2400ls. It was 400 bucks delivered. 3 year warranty and the lifetime service agreement. It has the foldup stand, and it seems to be a really solid saw from what I saw at HD...
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I just looked at the Ridgid saw this morning and that would be my choice also. As for Sears having parts, they're twice the price of others and they become "obsolete" or "no longer available" quite soon. (try to find a "driver", part number N60057, for a Stanley Bostitch N60FN)
Max
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Max wrote:

I'm not a big fan of Sears but a Stanley Bostitch N60FN is not a Sears branded product. Bostitch doesn't even list a part N60057 for a Bostitch N60FN. Why would you expect Sears to have it?
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

And, for Sears-branded stuff, they're actually quite good about keeping parts for older stuff as compared to most others...
--


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At Christmas time, I went to Sears to get a replacement knob for my mother's Kenmore dryer. It is about 45 years old (and still running). I expected to get laughed out of the store. However they were able to order a replacement part. Of course they did charge over $30 (including a $5 order handling fee) for a plastic knob.
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And when you paid that much, did they laugh then? :~) Some things are worth the price. I just paid $97.00 when having a tire, with 5600 miles on it, repaired on my 07 Tundra. I saw a bolt sticking out of the tread and Discount Tire offered a road hazard warranty for all 4 tires that came on the truck. A new tire for that truck is about $250. That hole could have easily been over 2" and I would have been buying a new tire.
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Yes, I did bitch about the cost but I paid it. The price was worth it to not have my mother worrying about her dryer being broken.
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Noooooo kidding. Been there.
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The women type aren't really fans of turning knobs with pliers, are they? ;-)
Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
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in

Ah, yes. Some years ago...15, anyway...the shower adjuster on our bathtub broke, that little center knob that lets you get wet and then rinse the soap off. Given my knees, I almost never do tub baths, so I clamped the smallest pair of ViseGrips on the shaft (I was busy doing things other than making plumbing store runs), and promptly forgot it. I mean, hell, it actually worked better than the fool knob. About two weeks later, my wife was getting really mean about it, so I drove in and got a replacement.
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I had to replace the little arm in a Kenmore ice maker. It's a piece of wire. Cost $12.00 plus $9.00 shipping/handling.
Max
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Max wrote: ...

...
It's a specially-shaped piece of wire...
Just as for the story of the consultant and his bill...
--
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Dan Coby wrote: ...

...
That kind of stuff is expensive anywhere and for almost anything -- replaced a plastic corner decorative piece on the GE electric range--$30 or so from even the cheapest online places. Of course, it looks much better w/ the thing fixed and that's a pittance compared to the price of the range (which has at least one desirable feature no longer available by any manufacturer I'm aware of).
--
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I bought the nailer at Sears. It was on sale. They did have the part at one time. I paid $40 plus for one. That's why I expected Sears to have it. I learned later that I could get it from Stanley Bostitch for less than $30. I expected Sears to have parts for a Craftsman band saw I once had but it was "obsolete". Sears had an enviable parts system at one time. It's no longer true. (The N60057 has been replaced by part #N60059) I have one on back order. I've been told that the part number changed because of problems with the original part. Not durable enough.
Max
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OK, here you go:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/retrieveModelAction !retrieve.action?modelNumber=N60FN&method:retrieve=x&pop=flush
Scroll down and you'll see "Driver"
Sears is better about having parts than anyone I know of. My table saw is a couple of months older than me (40 years) and I can order any part that I need for it. Even when an original part is no longer manufactured, Sears will find an alternate and sell that. For example, I can't buy the original handles for blade adjustments but I can buy a new hand wheel that's better than the original part. I've also bought parts for a clothes dryer I had that was 57 years old. On top of that, Sears has detailed drawings and manuals.
As for price, try buying parts for an old car, washing machine, stove or any other durable good. Replacement parts have always been expensive compared to what the manufacturer paid for them. The reason is supply / demand, materials and additional cost of handling small quantities. It's much cheaper to supply 5000 hand wheels to Emerson Electric than it is to supply 1 to me or you.
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