I was wondering if anyone has tried the Drum Sander Kit from Stockroom
I saw the company mentioned in an earlier post about sanding discs,
and started poking around the site. The idea of the drum sander is
intriguing - the sandpaper is velcroed to the drum, and the spinning
action causes the paper to lift slightly from the drum, allowing air
to circulate. Sounds like a pretty cool product, and I wonder if it
I've got the 18" kit. I used the motor from an old dryer to power it.
I don't use it much--I made my own table and the top is not absolutely
flat. In their design this is absolutely critical otherwise you get
snipe and uneven sanding. It may be worth getting their top due to this
I have used it for a few things, and eventually I'll make a new top and
it may become more useful.
The dust does generally drop straight down as advertised, and the paper
doesn't gum up or burn.
One thing to consider is that in the normal configuration this is not a
thickness sander. It's almost more like an abrasive jointer.
I've got a bunch of melamine laminated particle board shelves laying
around from old office cabinets - they make really great shop
fixtures. Might be a good application - do you know how much material
you need on each side of the drum? (if you have the 18" drum, how wide
overall is your top?)
A few other posters mentioned that this setup would not work as a
thicknesser - I agree. I'm thinking that I could use the planer to get
stock to within a very close tolerance of the desired thickness and
then run it through the drum sander to clean up the mill marks left
from the planner (unless I've just changed the blades that day!)
Who knows - if their kit is basically a drum wrapped in velcro with
the necessary bearings, how tough could it be to make the whole thing
on my own?
The only thing I hate more than sanding, is paying for something that
I can make myself!
Kitchen countertop material is great for the same. I made a multi-purpose
station (miter saw, sander, 9" bandsaw, etc.) out of some old kit. cabs and
countertop I got from the local "freecycle". Two cabinets with countertop
with a recess between that is just the right depth for the miter saw.
I think maybe the posting about "Laminating sheet metal" posted
yesterday is from a guy who is currently building one of these. People
who have them seem to like them but yes, not like a formal drum sander
that can be used to control accurate thickness but a good wide surface
That would be me, and nope. Mine is a thickness sander, and I think
if you are going to have a drum sander you really should have the
ability to sand to parallel surfaces and to thickness, which you can't
do either with that design.
This is the original version I used for 3-4 years, and it has a couple
links to where I got a lot of my info. It was really made with a lot
of compromises that ended up being not good choices, and I learned a
lot about what didn't work. But still it worked well enough, and was
still working. And I don't own a planer so it gets used a whole lot.
The new version has a plywood case. The table pivots on steel pins in
bronze bushings rather than from a hinge, flanged bearings rather than
pillow blocks, and the belt is on the outside of the case. That made
it much easier to set it up with the table pivoting parallel to the
drum. It uses the same paper clamping system, but I used MDF discs
instead of the half rounds. I had to cut the paper to length on the
old one, now it's sized to fit the paper, and it's now 18" long so it
holds two full sheets. Which is great being able to set up half 60
grit, half 120 grit for anything narrower than 9".
The titling table is not ideal for long stock as it's hard to set up
support, but I did up to 14"x44" hard maple panels on the old
version. On the new version I shifted the table toward the back more
where you need more help holding it. I have it set so that's close to
level at 3/4" from the drum, though that's out the window now that I
have to recover the top. It's not ideal for long stock, but really
excels the smaller type of things I mainly do and can be pressed into
handling the long stuff. It's as much a question of technique, as
trying to maintain a constant feed rate while you are switching your
hands around is difficult. If that was your primary use for it I
would say suck it up and buy a performax.
I am going to be putting up the plans for free, and offering a very
limited quantity of kits for sale. I have one extra 18" drum made,
and two 9" intended more for model makers. Back three years ago after
I went through it the first time and figured out how I should have
made it, I got excited and bought a bunch of materials and had 100 MDF
discs cnc'd. And then I thought about the liability issues. But I've
needed more width capacity, so I dusted it all off and figured I'd at
least make enough to use up most of the parts I had. I have been
sick the past few days so I haven't finished getting the website up,
but by the end of the week it should be up.
Looked at flicker and saw the ole Ghost pedal. Brings back memories.
Back in the day that was the only pedal I could use for my right foot
that wouldn't snap in half once I got pounding. However, to get the
action I wanted I had to spin the cups to the max tension and I'd
break the springs every few months instead. It got so I could
disassemble and replace the springs in a matter of a minute or two.
Even then the flanges on the cups would eventually wear out and
wouldn't hold on any longer. I had a pile of those things laying
Now I use the Pearl Eliminators for bass pedal and High Hat. Pearl
used to be cheap stuff back in the day but their eliminator stuff is
Yeah, I never understood all the hype on Ghost pedals. I remember thet
were just idolized and I bought into it. When I got my first one I was
so dissapointed when it was so sloooow I went back to the speed king.
But once I put on some weight and muscle I could snap a speed king
pedal at will so I pulled the ghost back out with it's fricking thick
platform pedal and just maxed the tension to get some action.
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