Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

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On 1/17/10 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:

I like that 45-er. Wish I had the space to make several.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su-nxFtCusI/AAAAAAAAAL0/ldm6Po6Db7A/s640/Crosscut_Sled_Big_1_110209.JPG
The plex is probably a bit thin (IIRC, 0.093"). I have thicker stock, but haven't replaced it.
Simple. Scrap. Free. Square. Works.
Johnson's Paste Wax on the bottom and on the runners.
I could surf Hawaii's North Shore on this bad boy....
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http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su-nxFtCusI/AAAAAAAAAL0/ldm6Po6Db7A/s640/Crosscut_Sled_Big_1_110209.JPG I couldn't get the link to work - did you erase it?
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snipped-for-privacy@mikedrumsDOT.com says...

I just finished a new sled. Sorry, no pictures yet.
I added a couple of T-slots for clamping. The fence has a T-slot on top for a stop block and sandpaper on the front for when I'm too lazy to use a clamp :-). Also an extension for crosscutting long pieces.
Since I'm starting to do segmented turning, I added a mount for an auxilary fence in front of the main fence. It swings to whatever angle I need for the segments.
And as another poster pointed out, be sure the fence is *square* to the blade.
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Make the fence adjustable to make squaring easier.
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_Sled_Fence.php
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wrote:

There was an article in FWW (?) years ago about squaring the fence (it might have been "methods of work" or something simliar).
Once the sled is complete except for the back fence:
Attach the fence on one side with a screw so that it's free to swivel. Then swivel it away from the assembly.
Attach a piece of 1/4" plywood to the left side of the table of the sled, so that it extends an inch or so to the right of the blade. They used screws through the bottom of the table of the sled, upward into the ply.
Run the sled through the balde, and remove the plywood waste.
Use a good framing square, set up against the 1/4 plywood, and align the back fence to the sqaure. Temporarily clamp/attach the back fence, and run the sled through the blade again. Then make the usual test cuts and check for square. Make the micro-asjustments, then finalize the fence attachment and remove the plywood.
Seemed to work good.
-Zz
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Never use the things - too dangerous.
Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut _box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway.
Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves together past the sawcut.
There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here too, just in case I slide it a bit too far.
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On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:

Semantics. You built a sled with a lid.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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GREAT line from the TV show, "House:"
You anti-semantic bastard :-)
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That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger.

Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating.
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On 1/25/10 6:31 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:

We don't communicate subtle difference by completely renaming a car an automobile, and pretending the car is "too dangerous" because it doesn't have anti-lock brakes like your "automobile."

All the "sleds" I've seen have the front and back cross sections. The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote... "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. "
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".
The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
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Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting finger joints.
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can you post a pic?
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Can you post a pic? Thanks
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This is a great string of information. I need to build one of these too and there is some great info here. Especially enjoyed Swingman's page of ideas.
This is why this group is such a great resource. Thanks guys.
RonB
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