The plex is probably a bit thin (IIRC, 0.093"). I have thicker stock,
but haven't replaced it.
Simple. Scrap. Free. Square. Works.
Johnson's Paste Wax on the bottom and on the runners.
I could surf Hawaii's North Shore on this bad boy....
I just finished a new sled. Sorry, no pictures yet.
I added a couple of T-slots for clamping. The fence has a T-slot on top
for a stop block and sandpaper on the front for when I'm too lazy to use
a clamp :-). Also an extension for crosscutting long pieces.
Since I'm starting to do segmented turning, I added a mount for an
auxilary fence in front of the main fence. It swings to whatever angle
I need for the segments.
And as another poster pointed out, be sure the fence is *square* to the
There was an article in FWW (?) years ago about squaring the fence (it
might have been "methods of work" or something simliar).
Once the sled is complete except for the back fence:
Attach the fence on one side with a screw so that it's free to swivel.
Then swivel it away from the assembly.
Attach a piece of 1/4" plywood to the left side of the table of the
sled, so that it extends an inch or so to the right of the blade. They
used screws through the bottom of the table of the sled, upward into
Run the sled through the balde, and remove the plywood waste.
Use a good framing square, set up against the 1/4 plywood, and align
the back fence to the sqaure. Temporarily clamp/attach the back
fence, and run the sled through the blade again. Then make the usual
test cuts and check for square. Make the micro-asjustments, then
finalize the fence attachment and remove the plywood.
Seemed to work good.
Never use the things - too dangerous.
Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut
_box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get
my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more
rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what
I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway.
Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make
than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves
together past the sawcut.
There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it
emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here
too, just in case I slide it a bit too far.
We don't communicate subtle difference by completely renaming a car an
automobile, and pretending the car is "too dangerous" because it doesn't
have anti-lock brakes like your "automobile."
All the "sleds" I've seen have the front and back cross sections.
The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
"as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. "
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".
The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
This is a great string of information. I need to build one of these
too and there is some great info here. Especially enjoyed Swingman's
page of ideas.
This is why this group is such a great resource. Thanks guys.
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