Sealing Plywood

I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends had begun to disintegrat over the years.
Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?
I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/ Sealer (by BEHR) I have.
Any recommendations?
Thanks.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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On 12/4/2012 5:58 PM, Searcher7 wrote:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page 310
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Whatever you end up doing be sure to do the same thing to both sides of the ply. Art
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On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 2:21:18 PM UTC-5, Artemus wrote:

Yes. Not to mention the edges.
I just don't like the idea of having to go out and buy something else when I already have a sealer and a primer/sealer.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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""Searcher7" wrote:

------------------------------------------------------- Swing already put this to bed.
Dewaxed shellac.
Lew
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On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and painted black after I seal it.
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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"Searcher7" wrote:
> I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
> door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

> Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is

------------------------------------------------------- Lew Hodgett wrote:

---------------------------------------------------- "Searcher7" wrote:

------------------------------------------- Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.
You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also serves as a primer for the raw materials.
Lew
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On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:31:01 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat can be painted over?
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Searcher7" wrote:
I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat can be painted over? ---------------------------------------------------------- You asked for a sealer for the plywood recommendation.
That's what you got.
Never worked with the stuff you have so can't comment about it's quality.
Zinsser Bullseye SealCoatis designed as a sealer that you can paint over.
It is what I would use.
Have fun.
Lew
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Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat is 100% was-free shellac in denatured alcohol.
http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid $6
scott
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On Dec 5, 5:51pm, snipped-for-privacy@mail.con.com wrote:

Dewaxed shellac is the best sealer made, can be painted over with anything.
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In fact, shellac is a component in KILZ primer.
scott
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On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 15:58:20 -0800 (PST), Searcher7

To fill in some blanks in the discussion, I'll add that shellac makes an excellent barrier to water vapor. In other words, it can slow but not prevent warping due to humidity changes.
There are no guarantees on that no matter what you do. One thing that helps is using better plywood but these days it can be hard to tell just what you are getting. I am pretty sure the better plywood won't be found at Home Depot or Lowes.
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On Friday, December 7, 2012 12:29:26 PM UTC-5, Jim Weisgram wrote:

Ok, so let me get this straight.
Thompson's WaterSeal is a waste of money. Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat works well. And no one here has tried BEHR Enamel Undercoater Primer/Sealer #75.
Thanks for all the ideas on removing the bar-code sticker. I actually wet a cloth and laid it on the sticker for a couple minutes and it scratched off easily after that. :-)
Darren Harris Staten Island, New York.
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