Dowels get my vote, but it may be irrelevant since the joint that is the
result of the use either will usually be stronger than the surrounding
There is a world of information on the use of various fasteners in wood
available on the www. Check here for starters:
That depends on grain orientation -- if it isn't cross grain, there's a
pretty good area for glue joint which isn't 'nil'. Although I've never
done a calibrated test, in end grain which where the dowel would have
the most long-long grain, the screw might not have any more holding
power, if as much, knowing that they'll tend to pull out of end grain...
Would be an interesting test just out of curiousity...
It's been done. See Hoadly on differential wood movement along the grain of
the dowel and the wood which encloses it. Unless you've got the perfect
grain match, it'll work loose from the glue as time passes, the wood cycles
and the glue becomes more brittle.
It would seem to me that a well fitted dowel with grooves for glue flow would be
stronger than a screw in most cases....
The main advantage to a dowel or biscuit, IMO, is the increase in gluing area...
because if the joint fails, screws aren't going to help much...
I've done test joints with biscuits and then taken them apart a week later... In
every case I had to break the joint before the biscuit let go..
Please remove splinters before emailing
First, you have to remember where he lives, that his pieces are considered
"art", that "promotion" is a big part of success in that genre (I personally
prefer Moser's less publicized/promoted work), and that he reportedly once
admitted that he started using screws out of ignorance of other joinery
As much as I admire his work, and certainly not to detract from what he
does, but if I wanted a "furniture joinery guru" to emulate, I think I'd go
I have quite a few pieces of Stickley which have, in addition to
exposed tenons, visible tenon-pin dowel ends, some of which are of
contrasting wood. Also some with visible dowel pins in corbels. All of
these dowel ends are prominent - no attempt was made to match grain.
It's a feature of A&C furniture.
Let's see...anyone else you want to add to the list of woodworking idiots?
We've already got Maloof and Stickley. Wanna add Krenov and Klausz just to
round it out? You know, Klausz uses *gasp* white glue to assemble his
furniture. What a moron!
But all this is just a fun tangent.
Arts and Crafts simply doesn't feature conspicuous plugs. The fact that
Maloof might use them in some circumstances is hardly authorization for the
rest of us to disregard what looks good.
Large natural emeralds are worth many times the value of large synthetic
emeralds. You know how you tell them apart? By examining them under
microscopes. If you can find a defect, however small, they are natural; if
perfect, synthetic. Otherwise they are indestinquishable. That makes a lot
Naturally, they are working to put defects in sythetic stones, so new tests
are being developed.
There is also a difference between a pin and a plug. A pin is a structural
component with the grain oriented *through* the cylinder, intended to
provide sheer resitance to pullout of a tennon. A plug is a cross-gram
cosmetic cap used to cover a structural component (screw).
You cant "match" the grain on a pin because it is, by definition, in the
I believe that the OP intended to use dowels as a loose tennon rather than
to pin a (not loose) tennon.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
If you really want to adhere to the "principles" of "arts and crafts style",
neither ... traditional mortise and tenon is the way to go, especially for
the larger pieces.
There are some good books out on making Arts and Crafts pieces, the "Shop
Drawing" series by Robert Lang is a good place to get a sense of traditional
construction for this style.
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