Sanding molding profiles

How to best sand moldings? Also what's the best way to route moldings across the grain in pine to minimize chipping? I tried all kinds of router speeds, feed slower, feed faster but all profiles across the grain are far from ideal. Along the grain they turn to be perfect and need not sending. I use router table.
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Backing board for routing the traditional direction but I found climb cutting the troublesome end for an inch or so then routing the proper direction solved tearout.
On Sat, 18 Dec 2004 12:09:37 -0500, "Alexander Galkin"

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Alexander Galkin wrote:

For end shaping, cut the piece oversize width, do the ends first, then trim to final width and shape w/ grain...depending on the profile/specie/cutter, simply doing the ends first, then the sides <may> be sufficient.
Of course, making a preliminary cut to remove as much waste as possible via the table saw, not making the full depth cut all at once (if bit profile allows it) and all the other "tricks" also come into play...
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Like a super sharp carbide bit
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TaskMule wrote:

Actually, steel can be sharpened much more keenly than can carbide...it just dulls more quickly on hard wood or (especially) man-made materials. I continue to use steel shaper cutters almost exclusively for that reason (plus I can resharpen them whereas it's nearly impossible to do any real good on carbide) except, as noted, for either long production runs or plywood, etc.
The quality of the bit itself is paramount, even more w/ carbide than steel.
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Two passes. One ~3/32" shy of final, which can be done with a plexi fence cover. Remove cover for final.
I tried all kinds of router speeds,

Other thing I've found helpful, Sasha, is to clean the bit after, giving it a touch-up on the faces with a 400-grit diamond paddle after cleaning. Means I'm ready to cut when impatience is highest.
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