Rounding tenons or squaring mortises?

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I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I square the ends of the mortises?
TIA
Larry
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" snipped-for-privacy@teranews.com" wrote:

A 10" flat bastard file and a little elbow grease knocks off the corners of a tenon for me.
YMMV
Lew
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I wrote:

---------------------------------------------------
Tonight was a rerun of an outdoor teak love seat Norm built a few years ago.
Lots of M/T joints forming joints that were not 90 degrees.
How did he round over the tenons?
A 4-In-Hand rather than a flat bastard file, but the elbow grease was still there.
Lew
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snipped-for-privacy@teranews.com wrote:

Everybody has their preference. On my current project (a simple desk table -- pictures coming in a couple weeks), I tried the rounded tenon approach on a couple of the joints. I decided that for me, squaring the mortise with chisel was faster and more precise than trying to round the tenons. So, about 1 1/2 tenons were rounded, the rest had the mortises squared.
--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham
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Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix), only to mess it up with a rasp.
http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
Makes more esthetic, but not necessarily practical sense, to square up the mortice. Notwithstanding, it is a hell of lot harder to square a deep inside cut than to round over an outside one. *********************************************************************************

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routerman wrote:

I'm sorry, are these not going to be covered in glue and hidden for eternity?
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:23:33 -0600, the infamous -MIKE-

So, it's OK for GM to use untempered Chiwanese steel for head bolts on your new pickemup truck's engine? They'll be covered in oil and hidden under the rocker covers for...days?
Now go wash those impure thoughts out of your mind, young man.
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routerman wrote:

The tenon on the left appears round to me. YMMV :-D
If a router is used with a template that produces round-end tenons that exactly fit a round-end mortise, where is the lack of perfection?

How and why so?
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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routerman wrote:

*********************************************************************************
I guess I don't get that. I found rounding over to be more difficult -- making sure that I didn't accidentally apply the rasp to the shoulder, leaving a notch that would be visible. In addition, getting the shape right seems to be hit or miss.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham
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On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:55:25 -0800 (PST), the infamous routerman

Yeah, doesn't anyone use chisels any more? It's also an RCH stronger with it squared up. 'Course, I bought a Shop Fox Mortiser for that purpose, the Normite version of a v-groove chisel.

True, but...
--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance
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Larry Jaques wrote:

<raises hand>
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
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On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:00:42 -0600, " snipped-for-privacy@teranews.com"

Which way would be easiest for you?
The only time I think it makes a difference is if the tenon end will be exposed or even extend beyond the other face. In that case I would square the mortise.
YMMV.
Gordon Shumway
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Gordon Shumway wrote:

In most cases the major face of a tenon is making long grain contact with a corresponding long grain mating surface in the mortise (and we all know that long grain mating surfaces make the strongest glue joints), whereas the narrow face of the tenon is usually mating with end grain in the mortise. Whether it really matters depends on the particular joint, but rounding the tenons does steal away a bit of the long grain to long grain contact, thus yielding a less than "perfect" joint. Personally, I always square up my mortises and tenons.
--
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On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:58:44 -0600, Steve Turner

Hey, how do you spell the "raspberry" sound? :-)
Gordon Shumway
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Gordon Shumway wrote:

Somewhere in a dark corner of my mind I seem to remember a published test where rounded mortise and tenons actually fared better than squared.
What will really frost any anal about their M&T "fit" is seeing x-rays of some very sloppy old M&T joints in antique furniture, and from some of the more famous woodworkers.
Scare the hell out of you ...
--
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Swingman wrote:

Seems unlikely that would be true, but I guess stranger things have happened.
I would think it even less likely to hold true in the case where both faces of the tenon approach the same dimension, the worst case being an exact square where rounding the tenon yields a regular dowel joint. A square M&T joint is most certainly stronger than a dowel joint, but then it's a bit of an unfair comparison because a dowel joint is susceptible to twisting forces.

Yeah, but a mortise and tenon is a great joint to begin with, so even a sloppy one is reasonably strong. Still no excuse for crappy workmanship though! :-)
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On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:25:26 -0600, the infamous Swingman

Fess up! Where'd you see the x-rays of those, Swingy? We wanna see, too!
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Interesting to see. Swingman showed me a few weeks ago. Almost shocking as to the lack of uniformity inside those joints.
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snipped-for-privacy@teranews.com wrote:

Your choice ... but factor into your decision the fact that your joint strength will basically come from the face to face surface glue area on the sides of your tenons and mortises, not necessarily from tenons perfectly rounded to fit the rounded mortise ends.
--
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"Swingman" wrote:

Precisely.
As to the relative strength of each, from a 1,000 feet, a flying red horse can't tell the difference.
Lew
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