Rockwell TS Question

I recently picked up a 12" Rockwell contractors TS and I am currently in the process of cleaning it up. Since I am going to use this almost exclusively with a dado blade, I needed to make a new zero clearance plate. I made it out of MDF, and with a little sanding, they fit perfectly.

Now, my question, the original plate was just flat steel and screwed into the top via 4 screws with no provision for adjustments. My plate sits a little lower than the top of the TS (by design) to allow for adjustments. Now, I need some type of brass/steel threaded insert that I can put a screw into so I can level the plate. Any chance, anyone has done something like this, or might have seen something along this line? It obviously needs to be short (1/4" or so) so I can recess it into the mdf.

Thanx in advance

SteveA

Reply to
SteveA
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I just thread an allen-head set screw directly into the material (from the top) so adjustment is trivial. There's not enough force to need anything more substantial ime.

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Reply to
dpb

The URL below will get you to Rockler threaded insert page.

Add some headless set screws and get a beer.

Have fun.

Lew

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Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I made my zero clearnace inserts out of 1/2" Baltic birch and directly screwed in 3/8" long #6 flat head wood screws to level the plates. After initial adjustments I have never had to readjust.

I have also used hot melt glue spots to level plates in the past. I simply sanded the glue dabs down to the correct height.

Reply to
Leon

I'd recommend sheet metal screws instead of woodscrews for MDF, because they are not tapered and won't tend to split the MDF.

On second thought, I'd recommend using baltic birch instead of MDF. MDF gets eaten up to quickly at the front of the slot by erosion from flying sawdust. that's my experience anyway.

On third thought, I just got a bunch of various sizes scrap lexan. I think I'll see how it works as a zero clearance insert. :-)

Bob

Reply to
BillyBob

==================================== I'd recommend sheet metal screws instead of woodscrews for MDF, because they are not tapered and won't tend to split the MDF.

On second thought, I'd recommend using baltic birch instead of MDF. MDF gets eaten up to quickly at the front of the slot by erosion from flying sawdust. that's my experience anyway.

On third thought, I just got a bunch of various sizes scrap lexan. I think I'll see how it works as a zero clearance insert. :-) =======================================

SFWIW, scraps of 1/4" hardboard and double backed tape works for me.

Also, stainless steel coarse thread self tapping sheet metal screws work for me.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Use allen screws...

  1. Drill holes in MDF

  1. Tap holes. If necessary, run in some super glue before tapping to harden MDF.

Reply to
dadiOH

I bought some MDF-specific screws at Lowes and they works very well.

From what I can tell, they *are* tapered a bit, like yours, and also have very wide-spaced and deep threads.

Those SPAX screws also work very well but are pretty pricey.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Wow, lot of saw for just dado blades.

Thats what I have done, but simply used short screws. Interestingly, I've never had to make any adjustments. I think my next one will be exactly the thickness I want, maybe a little fat and sand to perfect?

Threaded inserts are useful for lots of stuff. The best source I've found is Grainger. I bought 25 brass 1/4-20 3/8 long for less than I paid for 5 shitty steel ones at Lowe's. I use the knife threaded inserts:

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chance, anyone has

The shortest I found was 3/8.

Reply to
Jack Stein

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