Rescue Mission Pics

This was latest purchase....
1973 34-450 Unisaw 3HP single phase $300
Picked it up on Saturday....
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/media/163729/site1020.jpg
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/media/163729/site1021.jpg
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/media/163729/site1022.jpg
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/media/163729/site1023.jpg
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/media/163729/site1026.JPG
If my rotator cuff ever heals, it will get a down to bare metal restore.
The motor runs fine, although I don't know why.
The will sit back to back with it's bigger brother...
http://home.att.net/~mboceanside/wsb/media/163729/site1011.jpg
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Pat,
Good fine and good luck with restore. Pop. Woodworking has been running a video blog with one of their editors on restoring a similar Uni. Probably will give you some pointers.
MJ
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I was a little worried. Around here the "Rescue Mission" is a place downtown where you get a free meal if you are homeless and they try to feed your soul too. I wasn't quite sure what pics would be forthcoming.
Looks like a labor of love. Should be nice when done. The Trunnion looks great. If the arbor bearings are smooth and true I wouldn't touch them... but that's just me. My 1958 PM 65 TS looks to have the original bearings and original moter and spins just fine.

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I was a little worried. Around here the "Rescue Mission" is a place downtown where you get a free meal if you are homeless and they try to feed your soul too. I wasn't quite sure what pics would be forthcoming.
Looks like a labor of love. Should be nice when done. The Trunnion looks great. If the arbor bearings are smooth and true I wouldn't touch them... but that's just me. My 1958 PM 65 TS looks to have the original bearings and original moter and spins just fine.
A drive-by if I've *ever* read one.....
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This is my third restore, although this is my first bare metal restore and my first Unisaw.
I refurbished and did a mild restore to my 12/14" 34-350.
The Unisaw is gonna get the works.
The motor will get new brushes,new bearing,new start capacitor.
The arbor bearing will be replaced.
I'm on the look out for a original push button switch.
I also need a dust door and one locking knob for tilt wheel. These will be the hardest to find.
Cabinet gets the whole shooting match with sanding and paint.
All the guts get sand blasted and painted.
The Unifence appears to be original and is up in the air on restore. It is in decent shape but is gonna require a LOT of effort to do total restore.
The front rail has got what appears to be anodized black finish. I have never dealt with a anodized finish and am not sure how to proceed.
I have a new in the box 50" Biesemeyer that has been sitting in the corner waiting on this saw to be found.
I'm really torn on what to do there...
SonomaProducts.com wrote:

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On 01/28/2010 10:50 AM, Pat Barber wrote:

Yeah, if there is damage to the black finish that you want to repair, that's going to be a problem for the average Joe. I'm not qualified to tell you whether or not there are any cured film finishes that a mere mortal could spray onto aluminum and expect it to last; my understanding is that aluminum is next to impossible to "paint" and have it stick. Powder coating, perhaps? I don't know; maybe Robert (nailshooter) can speak to this one.
My expectation is that you'll need to renew the anodizing somehow, and that's a job you'll probably want to farm out to an electroplating service - *unless* you're like me and you're curious (and twisted) enough to want to tackle it yourself, in which case you might want to visit Caswell Plating to see if they can help:
http://www.caswellplating.com /
They are very knowledgeable and have excellent customer support.
A few years ago they set me up with all the goodies to perform simple anodizing tasks, but a Unifence rail would be a bit problematic; I would have to build a special container to hold it during the process, and I doubt I have enough of the various solutions to do the job.
--
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Steve Turner wrote:

degreasing well and zinc priming helps when painting aluminium. powder coating can be soft, and adds thickness.
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"Steve Turner" wrote:

--------------------------------- About the only way to paint aluminum is to blast it to clean metal, then prime with zinc chromate primer before it has a chance to oxidize from exposure to the air.
After primer cures, apply finish coat.
Not an approach I would use for this restore project; however, painted masts are not uncommon on sail boats.
IMHO, time for the pros for that part of the project.
Lew
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Buy yourself a can of zinc chromate (also known as UGS, ugly green shit). Works for Boeing.
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Looks like you have some work ahead of you; but it sounds like you have been through this before. How is the top? From the pics, it looks dirty but in fairly good shape. Starting with early iron like this you will likely end up with a better tool than you can buy new.
Your subsequent post says this is number 3? Do you sell them, keep them or distribute among family :^}
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I did a 79 14" Delta bandsaw, 1966 12/14 34-350 table saw and now this 1973 Unisaw. I am constantly looking for more.
The born on date was orignally 06/66 but I now believe the saw to be a 1973 based on the serial number.
They all stay in my shop.
There's gonna be a hell of estate sale down the road.
None of the the family is into ww or old iron and have always considered me a fringe case.
RonB wrote:

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"Pat Barber" wrote

There was a discussion about this awhile back.
Try to find somebody, a nonprofit, etc. who would appreciate and cherish the tools.
And make arrangements to give to them upon your passing.
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On 01/28/2010 02:16 PM, Pat Barber wrote:

If 06/66 is the real date of birth of the saw you'd better be careful; something tells me it might be evil. :-)
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Pat Barber wrote:

... snip

Cool project. Best wishes for rapid healing so that you can dig into this. Make sure you post the after pictures.
--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham
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