Recommend Repair Please?

[Bill]

I've got the receipt: Made by A.O. Smith, gas, 76 gallons, 6 years old --$145 (seems awfully cheap).

It's leaking hot water from the top--evidently theres a pin-hole sized hole in the "shell", very close to where the hot water goes out (the plumber seemed to try very hard to repair it for an hour or two; I provided his final diagnosis). Replacement of the heater is covered under home warrantee, except for "modifications"--which are evidently are going to be in he in the neighborhood of $325--because it's backed into a corner where a light sink will have to be taken out, a gas line moved and the exhaust adjusted. I think he's asking a little much, but I'm not sure there's much I can do. I could ask him to leave the new heater in the garage and shop around. But I'm not sure how much I could really save. In the meantime, we still have hot water when we need it (the heater just leaks-quite a bit). As the problem is worse since his visit, I've been shutting off the incoming pressure to the heater when we are not using hot water. Please don't trouble yourself with this one Lew--please save your energy for helping me to see my way through my workbench project! : ) I'm getting closer and closer to the concrete-grinding, epoxy flooring, and garage painting, and TS ordering projects, after which I can begin physical work on the workbench.

Concerning the workbench, I have been thinking about how to make the almost square vertical supports--i.e., the ends, plus at least 2 more (from SYP). I could glue 1" thick boards, say 6" wide, together so that the bench top will rest on end grain. Is SYP appropriate for all of the parts (these supports, plus drawers and shelves) ? When I get closer to having a finished design, I hope some of the readers here will critique it. Having fun.

Bill

[Lew Hodgett]

It's called tank replacement time.

If the budget can handle the inital investment, take a look at tankless hot water system.

Higher inital cost, but significantly lower operating costs resulting in lower total cost of ownership.

Think about glue ups from 2by? (1-1/2" thick) stock at least 8-10 maybe 12 wide. (fewer defects to cut out).

Let others comment about SYP.

Drawer bottoms want to be plywood.

Can you get it cut by somebody else then seal with shellac before you get near it?

Lew

[Bill]

The tank is covered under our home warranty, so we'll let them give us a new one this time around. Of course, as I mentioned before, we'll be paying alot for "special" installation.

For me, that would be sort of like putting a dead fly on top an ice cream sundae--even though one could avoid the fly with his or her spoon, just having it was there would ruin the whole thing! Maybe I could glue 1/4" or 3/8" boards together, similarly to the way I will do for the top, in effect making my own "plywood" for the drawer bottoms? Perhaps this could be my general solution for those situations which call for plywood, particle board, or MDF? If I'm going to do general projects, I need a solution like that anyway. It appears that the subsitution I find may provide a "signature" for my work. Years from now, besides playing "What is this?" people can ponder "Why would anyone make a drawer bottom like this?" ; )

Bill

[Bill]

Another beginners question: Why might I expect few defects on wider boards (intuitively, it seems like it would be easier to choose narrower boards with fewer defects)? Is it because the wider boards are necessarily cut from a deeper part of the log?

Bill

[Phisherman]

The water heater is more of an issue. I took a few cold showers--not too bad until the cold water trickles down your back! Have your wife stand on a step ladder with a watering can full of stove-heated water until you have it replaced. Household things seem to break at the same time. :(

[Bill]

As I washed my face with a cold wash cloth, I was just thinking about the "good ole days" when somebody also had to go out and pump the cold water from a well! The cold shave didn't both me much this morning either. Sort of makes me feel like a pioneer! : )

In case anyone is sitting on the edge of their seat concerning the leak in the GD: Water was coming (now) from a pin-hole sized hole in the J-B Weld stuff. I could not have formed such a perfect hole without actually using a pin. Considering I started a hole I described as 1/6 the size of a dime, I'm making progress. Whipped up and applied a 3rd batch. I'll post the results after the 15 hours set time in case anyone is wagering. ; ) Thanks again! --Bill

[Phisherman]

What about the $100 yearly maintenance charge for "descaling?" I almost got a tankless, but we have frequent power outtages. Our gas water heater is not dependant on electricity to run, but don't all natural gas tankless heaters need electricty?

When I ran the numbers the tankless cost more in the long run. If you are limited on space, then it makes sense. There is a LOT to go wrong with tankless heaters.

[Lew Hodgett]

Do you have unusually "hard" water?

Never heard of req'd annual "descaling".

Depends.

If the have a standing pilot, then no.

If they use 24VDC battery power for the piezo igniter, then no.

If they use 120VAC house power for the piezo igniter, then yes.

What goes wrong?

Lew

[Bill]

Here's a laugh for you--I couldn't make this stuff up...

After 2 more applications of J-B Weld, the GD most definitely DOES NOT leak. We gave it the big test today: the GB no longer works...

The unit had pretty poor reviews at Amazon.com (known for rusted blades and cracked case, probably related).

thinking about upgrading too it's bigger cousin ("Evolution", #74028),

choice offers the advantage of not needing to replace/reinstall the parts which hold it up to the sink. But I would consider other suggestions as this is for a second kitchen sink, which is barely used at all, not even once a week. In that light, $176 seems like a lot. My wife says we don't even need a GD there...but at least the one that is there doesn't leak.

By the way, the man who was supposed to replace the hot water heater on Friday, and again today, called today to say he was at the hospital with his wife (heart issue). I was as sensitive as can be, but gee-whiz.... He's supposed to come tomorrow.

I'm enjoying being a homeowner, though it's taking longer to clear the garage floor than I expected. Maybe it will make me feel better if I go buy a few clamps?

Bill

[Jack Stein]

Wider boards are prone to lots of problems. Defects can be many or few, depending on the grade. The less defects, the more you pay. Besides that, wide boards are prone to more cupping/warping unless you get high quality quarter sawn lumber, which is really costly. Generally, your best bet is 6" width lumber. It is the cheapest, I guess because there is more of it, and more by grade than wider dimensions. In other words, a board foot of 2x6 is cheaper than a board foot of 2x12, in the same wood and same grade. Fortunately, you are generally better off using

2x6 material any way. Even at the same price, you are better off gluing up 4 or 5 2x6's for a top than a couple of 2x12's.

[Bill]

I was thinking of ripping them into 2.5 or 3" boards, then flipping the alternate ones (so that all the grain all runs in the same direction and gluing them with that configuration. Does that seem like a good strategy?

Bill

[Jack Stein]

If you are gluing up a top, pay close attention to the end grain. If it's smiling at you, you will likely have trouble with cupping. Plenty tell you to alternate the smile up and down on every other board, but this doesn't work either. Best is to look for end grain that is straight up and down (quarter sawn) or slanted, but not semi-circular. You can find pieces like this in lumber piles if you look hard enough, or you can pay through the nose to buy it already separated out. Quarter sawn and rift cut pieces are in all regularly milled logs, but only a few in each log, unless the mill is specifically turning the logs for that purpose, which you pay for. For a work bench, I personally wouldn't worry too much about it, for a fancy desk, I might look harder for quarter sawn lumber. Cutting it into smaller widths should also help.