Re: My second kickback - time for a question

If the miter slots are parallel to the blade, and the fence is parallel to the miter slots, the fence is necessarily parallel to the blade as well. If the fence toes out from the miter slot by a given amount, it necessarily toes out from the blade by exactly the same amount.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller
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Don't kid yourself about how fast your reflexes are ... they don't even signify in this situation, as your bruises amply prove.

How about the splitter? Were you using one?

One of the benefits of the wrec is that people can learn from other's mistakes. Your answer to this question may help someone else avoid injury in the same manner.

Reply to
Swingman
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The advice I gave was some general safety advice, Larry...and not necessarily meant to combat just kickback. In essence, of course, much of it was personal opinion.

I agree about your gullet advice. As I suggested in my post, a 1/2" or so above the stock will usually do it.

Bottom line...I think the OP came here for advice...and he's gettin' plenty of it. lol He'll need to assimilate what he wants to...and then develop his own style and rules for woodworking.

Have a nice week...

Trent

Cat...the OTHER white meat!

Reply to
Trent©
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Reply to
Trent©

He was asking for advice about kickbacks. I think *you* are the one who needs to read for comprehension.

No, not bull. But you're still wet behind the ears. You'll figure it out eventually.

Read what you wrote, dumb-ass. You advised him to adjust the saw so that the blade will bind. IOW, you advised him to do exactly the thing that will

*create* a kickback. Did you happen to read Leon's response to you, where he pointed out the same thing? I'm not picking on you. You're giving _dangerous_ advice.

What you DID say is "consider ... adjusting your present saw so the blade will bind". This CREATES kickback.

No, that is NOT what you said. Look above. You even quoted it yourself.

In any event, *both* what you said originally, and what you now claim you said, are very dangerous, extremely bad advice.

So why are you advising him to do something that even you admit is "probably not" "a good setup for the average woodworker"?

No, you idiot, when you take your hand off of it to reach for the motor switch, it comes flying back in your face because you're not holding it down anymore. DUH!

Correction: it's not recommended advice for ANYONE. What you suggest here is dangerous. If you want to be a reckless idiot in your own shop, fine with me. But don't advise others to follow your example.

Ah, I see. You started out using a cheap POS table saw that wasn't strong enough to kick a board back. So now you think that you know how to prevent kickback.

You obviously didn't learn very much from it. You should stop giving advice on subjects that you obviously know absolutely nothing about.

As usual, you don't know what you're talking about.

Explain the many posts from people who have set their fences dead parallel to the blade. If it's "necessary" as you claim to toe the fence away from the blade, how come these people aren't constantly experiencing kickbacks?

Explain this excerpt from "The Table Saw Book" by Kelly Mehler: "Every table saw comes with a rip fence, which must be properly aligned for the blade to cut safely and efficiently. As discussed on p. 56, the rip fence can be set parallel to the sawblade, or slightly out of parallel (with the fence a mere 1/64 in. farther from the rear of the sawblade than from the front of the blade). [Chap. 6, Ripping, page 92] He then goes on to discuss the pros and cons of each approach.

Or this from "Table Saw Magic" by Jim Tolpin: "Safe and accurate ripping requires that the rip fence be parallel to the blade." [page 39]

Or this: "An easy and accurate way to ensure that the rip fence locks up parallel to the blade is to align it parallel to one of the miter gauge grooves, which you have already aligned parallel to the blade as one of the first steps in your tune-up." [Tolpin, page 43]

Do you consider yourself to be more of an expert on table saws than Tolpin and Mehler? Maybe you should write your own book.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller

Maybe we're saying the same thing in different ways. Would you agree that the wood has to climb the back of the blade and be flung forward by the rising teeth in order to get a kickback?

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

Yes.

I also contend that the forward-flinging force is greater at lower blade heights. Clearly the rising force is greater at a higher blade height, but I believe that it is easier to resist that force; among other things, its magnitude is less.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller

Another newbie here - I had one when I first started (just a few short months ago). I think one of the main things is that the blade is set parallel to the table/mitre grooves. I spent some time adjusting that and now the saw works much better. It's a fairly low cost Craftsman ($500). I also invested in a better blade ($50) which also helped a bunch.

Reply to
Jim K

Exactly. Now ya got it.

Whew...TOOK ya long enough!

Now...go play with your bolt! lol

Have a nice week...

Trent

Cat...the OTHER white meat!

Reply to
Trent©

"G.E.R.R.Y."

Reply to
Jeff Gorman

It didn't take *me* any time at all to "get it". Have *you* figured out yet that the advice you gave was stupid, dangerous, and not based on any real degree of experience?

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller

This month's Wood magazine: In the cover picture the saw operator is standing directly in the plane of the sawblade, one hand on either side of the blade, ripping what appears to be a piece of soft maple (a guess from the materials used to make the shop cabinets). Picture is repeated on page

  1. Of course, he's using a splitter and safety glasses, so 2 out of 3...

Cheers, Eric

Reply to
Eric Lund

He doesn't have quite the earmarks of a troll, I don't believe. All the evidence so far suggests that he's just an idiot.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Reply to
Doug Miller

How big is the workpiece?

From your injuries, it seems they might be quite small. Small pieces, especially ones that are nearly square, pose a high risk of kickback due to the possibility of the piece rotating as it passes between the fence and blade. A tiny amount of rotation -- even just a few thousandths of an inch -- can be enough to cause a violent kickback.

A splitter, which can prevent kickback on longer pieces, especially those with internal stresses, does not protect against this particular type of kickback. The best solution for cutting small pieces is to use a jig; often a crosscut sled will suffice.

Cheers!

Jim

Reply to
Garnet

"G.E.R.R.Y." The answer to this query might be found on my web site - please look at : > 'Circular Sawbench Safety' - 'Fences'. : >

: > Jeff G : : What's the URL?

It is in a disguised form at the foot of the posting, as below.

Jeff G

-- Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK Email address is username@ISP username is amgron ISP is clara.co.uk Website

formatting link

Reply to
Jeff Gorman

Because, as we all know, all trolls are idiots, but not all idiots are trolls. Thankfully.

-BAT

Reply to
Brett A. Thomas

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