# Raised Panel Doors Software

• posted on April 30, 2005, 8:17 pm

I am new to raised panel doors (just got PC router and table setup). I made a few raised panel samples and it's cool. Now I like to use a software to calculate measurements for the pieces of wood.
I download a software, believe it's "Software for Woodworking". Since I am new, I think I could follow the diagram and measurements. I just print two sets (40x20 and 15x10) to try study from there.
If there's other software you experienced, could you post the link for me?
Is it generally common practice for the (top/bottom) rail and (side) stile set to 2 1/2" wide??
Per above statement (2 1/2" wide), until about how short (overall) width to start using narrower rail/stile width? I am asking because I foresee a project where I might will need to use a 5" overall width (two on each side, permanent, not doors).
Thanks.
Chuck
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• posted on April 30, 2005, 8:58 pm

paper?
Jim
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• posted on May 1, 2005, 6:29 pm
Might be... I am just starting out with raised panels, so I just want to know what the options are "out there" and then learn of it.
Chuck

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• posted on April 30, 2005, 10:23 pm
If you use Sommerfeld's method, you'll be cutting them 2-7/16" due to the depth of the tongues on the rails. It makes calculations easier, because you cut the rails as if the stiles were 4" less than the width of the door. So for a 10" door, subtract 4" and cut the rails to 6". Then when the rails' tongues go into the groove in the stiles, you end up at 10" total width.
Dave
CNT wrote:

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• posted on May 1, 2005, 6:30 pm
I see. I didn't know that, that's why I am asking about it...
Chuck

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• posted on May 1, 2005, 7:43 pm
There are excellent instructions for making raised panel doors in the Sommerfeld catalog. It's free.
Dave
CNT wrote:

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• posted on May 2, 2005, 3:16 am
On video or software? I looked in a website and seems it's on video?
Chuck

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• posted on April 30, 2005, 10:28 pm
Please understand that if your router bits cut different tongue & groove depths, then you would need to adjust accordingly. I find his method simple enough for a screw-up like myself to easily understand.
If you are making cathedral arches or other pattern cuts on the top rail, of course that rail will be taller; usually around the 4-1/4" range IIRC. Everything else gets cut to 2-7/16" widths.
Dave
CNT wrote:

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• posted on April 30, 2005, 11:49 pm
That is the best way I do it. My cutters cut 7/16 so my rails and stiles are 2 7/16. You will loose the 7/16 with the cope cut so your left with 2" on each side. Take the total door width and subtract 4" and that's the mesurment from inside the tongue to inside the tongue. It does not matter if your door is some odd ball size your rails will be 4" narrower than the width of the door. Then take off another 1/16 to 1/8 for raised panels or just a 1/16 for plywood flat panels.
David wrote:

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• posted on May 1, 2005, 12:14 am
Good point. I should have added for the OP that the panel should be cut 1/8" narrower than the rails (not exposed rail dimension, OP, the total rail length including tongues). That means width of door, minus 4-1/8". For the height of the door panel, subtract 4-1/8" from overall height of door (stile length). This applies only to straight rails; not cathedral, etc.
Dave
Jody wrote:

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• posted on May 1, 2005, 6:36 pm
I get it... I will read it over again later to "get it" some more!
Chuck

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• posted on May 2, 2005, 3:30 am
I just did another sample following the software measurements. Since I have 3/8" bit depth, this made the rail 5 7/8". My final output total width is 10 1/8" (instead of 10").
After the sample panel, I found the panel have (total) 3/8" gap (play) and the top have 1/4" gap, is that a lot? When I did the paper/pen measurements, the gap was much tighter.
If my bit are 3/8" depth, what measurements should I use for the side width to make the rail minus 4" (example, for 10" width door, what it take to make the rail exact 6")?
Are the popular bit depth 3/8" or there are other sizes? I bought the 3- pieces for \$60, to practice, along with pine boards (the pine sure scatter messy...)
I guess I will have to play around some more to learn right.
Chuck

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• posted on May 2, 2005, 12:57 pm
Also, which is used mostly? Rubber balls or two nails (top/bottom) to align the panels?
Another thing, while I have a templet for stile and cope, I will need to make a bigger one for the panel.
BTW, what are the 3 bits called as? Stile, Cope, and Panel?
Chuck
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• posted on May 1, 2005, 6:32 pm
Again, I am "new" to this, so I will have to learn the new terminology for raised panels...
Chuck

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• posted on May 1, 2005, 2:33 pm
Yes Chuck free software is available to help with cutting the parts for raised panels. Quite some time ago someone posted an Excel spreadsheet program that works good. It produces a dimensioned sketch and a cut list. I modified the program some and wrote additional programs to handle multiple panel assemblies. If you have Excel and are interested drop me an Email and I will see if I can find it for you. As for the width of rails and stiles something around 2 1/2" is common. However, other widths are used for large doors and multiple panel assemblies. Do to the cross grain nature of the rail to stile joint there is a limit to how wide you can go. In most situations widths up to 5" are okay. Earl Creel

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• posted on May 1, 2005, 6:34 pm
Yes, I would be interested... my email is as posted next to my name.
Chuck