My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
motor? Thank you.
It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
years old. Yesterday, I used it continuously for about two hours and
it starts making a funny noise, the motor's thermal overload tripped
and quit. I opened the machine panel and smell the insulation, the
motor was warm, not hot. After it cooled down, it started with the
funny noise again and quit, this time my 20 amps panel's breaker
I am thinking of replacing it with a 2hp Farm duty motor which is
cheaper than a Leeson's continuous cycle motor, or buy a Grizzle's
1-1/2hp motor. I really don't think the motor is kaput, maybe the
motor's insulation is bad or the power wire is a 8 ft,16/3 gauge.
Maybe, if I replace it with a 12/3 it may help? Any suggest or should
I go ahead and replace the 1-1/2hp motor with a Farm duty 2hp motor.
A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you
think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power
wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power
wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the
An undersized wire will have too much resistance, thereby drawing LESS
current, not more. Because of the higher resistance, more power is
dissipated in the wire; therefore it heats up, eventually getting hot
enough to melt the metal (and/or start a fire) resulting in an OPEN
circuit, not a short circuit.
1.5 HP is a little over 1100 watts. At 220V, that's around 5 amps of
current. 16/3 shouldn't have any problem handling 5 amps. If you're
running it at 115V, you're closer to 10 amps, which is still okay for
16 ga. wire. Personally, I'd replace the wire with 12/3, but don't
expect it to solve your issue.
Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com /
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short and
probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
enough to short out and blow the breaker.
If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???
My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.
Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it.
The question is, what can be done for less than the cost of another motor.
When I had to replace a 1 3/4 HP motor a while back, I called a place
looking for rebuilt units. They told me they don't even bother rebuilding
anything less than 10HP. Start capacitors and thermal switches might be
easily replaceable, but I wonder about getting a smallish motor rewound.
>Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
Yes, but at what price.
I have been out of the motor business for over 25 years.
Back then anything below 10HP was automatically scrapped because you
could replace it for less than the rebuild price.
Would not surprise me if the cut off is 15HP these days.
Whichever motor you decide to use, make sure it is TEFC rated. (totally
enclosed, fan cooled). The 'totally enclosed' part ensures that sawdust
won't find its way into the innards of the more. 'Fan cooled' is
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