I thought I did that. The first time I put it on evidently it went on too thin because there was rust showing up on the top. The directions said to leave it on longer before buffing down, for more protection.
Does it protect the surface? My saw is in the garage, in Alabama. It gets rather humid out there.
It's doesn't purport to, like Boesheild, but it seems to.
I'm in TN, and like you, the tools are in the garage. When I first got the Dri-Film, I had just picked up an older 14" bandsaw with cast iron table. The table still had the goo they put on at the factory to keep in from rusting during transport and storage. I used spirits to remove the goo and when it all evaporated, I immediately sprayed on the Dri-Film. That was several months ago and there's not a spec of rust on it.
In any case, it's worth the money to pick up a can. It's by far the best "can't tell it's there" lubricant I've ever used.... and I've tried dozens.
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 17:10:28 -0500, the infamous "Ed Pawlowski" scrawled the following:
It's the buffing with the 7" bonnet that gets me.
I don't want to mortgage the house. That crap's 'spensive. Besides, I bought one can of Johnson's Paste Wax and ended up with 4. That's a lifetime's worth, ah reckon.
-- The Smart Person learns from his mistakes. The Wise Person learns from the mistakes of others. And then there are all the rest of us...
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On 11/8/2009 9:04 AM Larry Jaques spake thus:
Bullshit. Just plain bullshit.
I've been using candle wax to lubricate cutting tools (planes, saws, my tablesaw table, etc.) for *years*.
No *way* is it ever going to cake up to 1/8". Not even 1/64".
When you swipe a piece of wax across the sole of a plane, you're depositing a schmear of wax that's *maybe* 0.003-4" thick. Once you take the first stroke across the workpiece, the wax is distributed across the sole of the plane in a microscopic film.
*Most* (not all, but most) of the wax stays on the sole of the plane. Whatever miniscule amount transfers to the wood is of no consequence to later glue-up or finishing operations.This is just so much ado about nothing.
I guess if you only buy $900 planes, then you ought to buy camellia oil or whatever. Otherwise, use candle wax (or beeswax, or whatever else is handy.)
One thing I would definitely *not* use is silicone, which can mess up finishes badly (fisheye, etc.).
"David Nebenzahl" wrote
Sometimes I've seen a fringe of wax on the leading edge of the workpiece, indicating that much of the surplus was has been sraped away.
The lubrication is still effective all the same.
Jeff
foo-foo stinky
Guess you're going to have to come into the house some time, gasp for air and then fall motionless to the floor.
After you've been laying there for two hours, you're free to get up and be satisfied that your point was properly demonstrated. :)
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