Perhaps there's other options. I'm not too far removed from your 10
terabytes with a total of more than 7 TB, but 6 TB (4x1.5 TB drives) are
located in a USB connected satellite case, which is extremely small and
quiet. And with that I plan on increasing transfer speed soon by replacing
the USB connection with a Firewire 800 connection, which the satellite case
Find an old Printer enclosure. It is a lid opening box and it has thick
foam on the inside area. The issue you will come in with is air. Cooling
a working computer in an box isn't easy. Not silent.
Perhaps in stead of asking for what you did - you might tell us why or for
Might be just a different computer to solve the problem. Might be exotic
Christopher Glaeser wrote:
Most desktop computers cool by turbulent circulation of air, which
generates high-frequency 'ssss' sound, in addition to a few low-
components from disk rotation and fan bearings.
Soundproofing, like in a studio, relies on baffling and putting high
barriers in low density mediums (lead sheet will stop a LOT of sound
from air, less of conducted sound in wood). So, one approach is to
use heavy panels (like, liquid nails assemblies of two or three
thicknesses of sheetrock/drywall/gypsum board) and supporting the
inside the box with soft foam pads. There has to be an air inlet and
either use a labyrinth box-with-baffles as an air channel, or close
thing comletely and put an air/water heat exchanger (ask at an auto
radiator shop, they can build up a small core easily enough) and
remove heat through water circulation.
Sound-deadening carpentry includes sand-filled panels (Wharfedale
speakers, I think, used this) and humble MDF-glue construction (also
a favorite of speaker designers).
Best, though, is to remove the disks and power-hungry parts to another
room. Sound studios can keep laptops in the quiet room, and used 'em
remote-control the real mix computers elsewhere... rubber-chicklet
keyboards and trackpads can be quieter than standard keyboard/mouse.
IF the machine doesn't need 3d accelerated graphics or full motion video,
then a thin client might be a possibility--there are several ways to set
that up--a netbook or a mini-itx system does fine as a thin client and they
can be made as quiet as a lamp, while you can put the main machine in
If you haven't checked out http://www.silentpcreview.com you might want to.
Search that site with keyword "wood" and you'll find some discussion of
wooden cases and some articles by people who have tried them.
If your objective is to do a woodworking project by all means have at it,
but if the objective is to have a quiet machine in a reasonable time then I
think that buying one is going to be a better plan.
I have not read all of the posts in this thread. But, if one's objective is
a quiet machine, then building one with a graphics cards having ambient
is a good start. Giga-byte makes some. I think their URL is giga-byte.com
I like mine. If you want a quiet machine, you will probably need to build
The specifications of most components will list their sound level in db.
As may have been pointed out, "water cooling" may offer the quietest
I'm not willing to bother with that yet.
Reviewing the entire thread it's clear that the OP doesn't want a quiet
machine, he wants a cabinet to hold a noisy one.
Googling "DIY computer isolation box" will yield a good deal of useful
Thanks, this car keeps veering off the road, and I appreciate your efforts
to regain control of the steering wheel. It was probably a mistake to
mention the word "computer". In hind sight I should have said "acoustic
enclosure for noisy doohicky" and avoided all the discussions about
replacing videos cards etc.
I had not tried that particular Google phrase and that did turn up some new
ideas. Thanks again.
I would tend to agree.
I don't know which of the components represents the Lowest Common
Denominator (by having the lowest upper operating range) in this
equation, but ... I'd think you'd want to locate a temp probe as near
to /that/ component as you could.
OTOH, if they're all within a fairly narrow operating temperature
band, then ... I'd pick a component and locate it as near to that
component as I could.
www.aerocool.us has a bunch of different temperature monitors combined with
other functions--some of them will support four separate temperature sensors
and adjust fan speeds accordingly--they're designed to go in a computer case
but there's no reason they can't work externally as part of a separate
cabinet, and can be used to carry other functions outside the cabinet.
Yes, but I'm not sure what the reading at the computer case exhaust will
tell me. The exhaust is pretty warm now just sitting in a room. If the
input of the computer case has unrestricted air flow at a good operating
temp, isn't that sufficient? Of couser, that "unrestricted air flow" is
criticially important. If the temp at the input to the case was low but the
air flow into the case is restricted, that would be very bad indeed.
I guess the purpose isn't airflow, it's temperature drop, right?
Computer don't need airflow, they need lower temps.
It just so happens that airflow will lower the temp.
I'd say the probe (whatever) should be in the box, up high.
I would move it around the box to find the hottest spot and leave it
You could always find a website or specs from a company that make those
boxes for studios and try to ascertain where they put theirs.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I would recommend getting some software that will monitor the CPU temps.
There is some free stuff out there that will do it. Depending upon how
quiet you get it, check out for fan monitors as well, want to make sure
they keep spinning.
Monitor it while the computer is outside the box, under heave usage.
When it goes inside the final box, make sure it doesn't get much, if
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