If it hasn't been jointed, I wouldn't say that it's been "flattened". The
straightening you describe on the TS makes an edge straight, but not a face.
To make a face both straight and flat, the board needs to be jointed -- not
necessarily with a jointer. Other techniques include hand-planing, machine
planing with a sled, or using a router and jig. (Note that I'm not disagreeing
with you -- I know you know all that already -- I'm just trying to make sure
the OP understands the difference.)
On Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:25:35 -0500, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Forget about the jointer and run the boards through the planer only,
flipping the board between passes. There are certain guidelines to
follow (in terms of board shape, thickness, hardness etc) when using a
surface planer but a well-tuned planer should handle rough-cut lumber
with ease. Dust collection helps.
I would have to agree. I just planed out a piece of walnut that was cupped.
I planed a flat on one side, not fully smooth and then flipped it and took
very light passes until I was planing the full board, then back over and
cleaned up the first side. The result was a flat board with two smooth and
And this works more often than not if there is generally only one of a few
issues with the board. This is pretty much impossible if the board is
longer and has a bend from end to end and or a twist.
That said, I use a 8' long sled to set my rough cut wood on when sending it
throught my 15" planer.
That only works if the piece thickness is sufficient to prevent the
planer feed roller pressure from deforming (flattening) the piece.
Otherwise, one will end up w/ a board of uniform thickness but still cupped.
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