Plane sharpening website

I found a great detailed website by Brent Beach about sharpening plane blades. Maybe some people haven't seen it here.
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen /
It was a really good read. I'd like to know what he thinks of sharpening chisels and other tools.
Peter
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Looks like a great site, thanks. I was sharpening plane blades and a chisel all night, still have to put them across 1200 grit (all done on glass). Five blades in all. The #6 Hock HCS blade is done. So, while it's all set up I think I'll do more blades that I have.
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Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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I have large diamond stones and one of those roller jigs. I mount a blade and run through 4 stones and then the 6000 grit Japanese water stones in about 10 minutes per blade. Once the blade goes in to the jig it doesn't come out until the bevel and back are polished to a mirror shine. max

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When you say that you run through the 4 stones do you mean different grits of diamond or water stone? 10 minutes per blade sounds impressive. Would appreciate some detailed directions.
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I set out all of my diamond stones in a shallow pan of water, because I donΉt want them immersed, I want a slurry. You have to make sure there are no large nicks on the edge or it will take forever. I use a belt sander with a finish grade belt to remove damage. I then insert the blade in the holder and use heavy pressure on the black stone until the entire face of the bevel is uniform. I then switch stones and repeat. The final is a Japanese water stone.. This takes more care to use because it is easier to saddle the stone and ruin your edge. Sometimes I then buff on a hard felt wheel.
max

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I can understand why technically, it is a lot quicker because of what you use. But what I use use takes a lot more set up because of the spraying and laying of the papers, cleaning the glass afterwards and so forth. Lots of all of it. But I am careful enough to make three sheets last for five blades, then everything is done on a final forth sheet of 1200 grit.
Also setting blades in the Chinese vise type of honing guide to the perfect distance for the right bevel angles usualy takes more time. I use the depth guage part of a Vernier caliper to set the distance and I do it perfectly. This takes try after try because of the rude tacky paint that is in the jaws of the guide, and all the micro loosenesses of the guide can throw it right off when tightening.
I think I'll get out the paint stripper! Also waiting for the new design of Veritas guide to be released.
I also take more time to very carefully lap the backs to a mirror finish while keeping the blade from "tilting_off_flat" (takes some muscle), and to stroke on the micro bevels, grit after grit for either job. Last night my hands turned dark grey with steel powder.
I have to do things this way "because I be so PO' "... there are good enough reasons for that.
Wanna donate??? OH YEAHHHH???? COOOOOLLLL!!!
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