I'm an experienced cabinet maker with very little experience with linseed
oil finishes . Do I need to be using some type of abrasive between coats ?
So far have rubbed 3 coats into the piece I'm working on , maybe I'm just
expecting the finish to build faster ...
There is a pic of the piece at the binary group under walnut jewelry chest
I never find a need to use any abrasive but your post begs for a definition
Oil finishes, linseed, boiled linseed, tung, and Danish oil, aren't meant to
build. If you actually manage to put enough on to get a build it is going to
be a soft, maybe gooey finish that still provides the minimal finish of non
built up oil finishes.
Unlike surface finishes oils are meant to be soft, warm finishes, especially
nice on walnut, that maintain the feel of the wood. I saw the box on the
binary group. Very nice, but the sheen you have already arrived at is about
as good as it gets, which, I think, is just about right for an oil finish..
However, if you want build and or increased protection for the wood you had
best be looking at a surface finish, shellac, lacquer, varnish.Those
finishes are suppose to build.
Personal opinion, a jewelry box is just fine, in terms of protection, with
an oil finish and before changing I'd consider appearance over wood
This is only the 3rd piece I've finished with linseed oil (other 2 were
the vanity this is going to set on and a bench for said vanity) . I'm not
looking for a hi gloss finish , but felt that repeated applications with
suitable drying times (48-72 hrs) would tend to fill the grain somewhat
(without being gummy) and give some sheen . I've got 4 coats on now , and
it's where I want it as far as gloss/sheen . I think that this is the best
finish for this type project - it won't ever chip , peel etc like surface
Snag_one , the motorcycle maniac
88 XL 1200 "Beast
I haven't actually used BLO as a furniture finish, but have used it on
several guns I've stocked with walnut. The finish won't build very high,
but it will fill the pores (in time), giving a very smooth deep glow. The
hand rubbing technique involves lots of elbow grease. The first couple of
coats are warmed (or thinned) to allow quick penetration. Flood the piece
with as much as will stick to it, leave it 10-20 minutes, then wipe off all
the excess and leave overnight (at least) in a warm room to harden.
Thereafter, it's simply a matter of applying a few drops of neat BLO to the
palm of the hand and rubbing it in hard, building up a good friction heat,
until the piece doesn't feel oily. The old rule for gunstocks was to apply
once every day for a week, once every week for a month, once every month for
a year, and yearly thereafter. Nice piece, btw - there's a lot of work in
hand-rubbing a chest that size!
Some dedicated stock oils, such as Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, contain driers,
which speeds things up.
I did use fine wet-and-dry between coats, lubricated with BLO. Some
stockers use pumice powder or rottenstone as an abrasive - I should imagine
that this will enhance the pore-filling properties, but wet-and-dry was what
I had to hand.
Note that raw linseed will never really fully go off. It's best suited to
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