Neophite Case Construction Question

I am considering two different methods for attaching drawer runners to the back of a nightstand. The back is 1/4" plywood that sits in a groove.
Option one is shown here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/case1.jpg
Option two here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/case2.jpg
Option one would be easier, but I would lose 3/4" (width of vertical board) of drawer depth. Option two's glue up would be a little more difficult, but I don't lose any depth.
Any comments and/or suggestions?
Here is the main project page: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/Bedside_Project.htm
Thanks!
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www.garagewoodworks.com



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I don't think I would go to that much trouble to get back 3/4".
todd

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"Garage_Woodworks" wrote:

If you half lap option 1, you get more strength and don't lose 3/4".
You could also dado in a grooves to accept runner in rear.
All of that allows the rear panel to float.
HTH
Lew
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Many years ago I built with center runners with the assumption that they better guided the drawers. I question if you are trying to make an authentic as possible copy or have seen this technique and have chosen to use it.
Don't take this personally but I don't like the center runners at all. I prefer to simply build a web frame and let the drawer sides slide on the frame and carry the weight. If needed for a chest similar to yours I use spacers to keep the drawer square when sliding in and out and build to tight tolerances to keep the drawer from tipping when pulled almost all the way out.
The way I do it now is not necessarily easier but alignment is simpler and the chest in general is much more stout. If you would like I can e-mail you some .dwg or .pdf drawings of the method I use. It can be adapted to most any stile chest.
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A third option is a modification of option 1. Use half lap joints on the vertical board in the center at the back.
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Garage_Woodworks wrote:

Half lap the #1 board and you lose no depth.
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dadiOH
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Thanks for the suggestions. Several suggested that I should half lap the back vertical board in option 1. The back top and bottom rail is only 3/4" thick with a 1/4" panel in a groove (centered). This only leaves 1/4" of space available for the half-lap. Unless I put the back panel in a rabbet which would leave 1/2" ??
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3/4"
Classic, time honored method, and for good reason, is a "web frame" to support the drawers. Much stronger case, much easier to fit inset doors, much stronger everywhere it counts, and you can still use center slides if you want.
http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/DrawerOvl.jpg
(however, it was designed for overlay door fronts instead of inset)
Strictly FWIW ...
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Last update: 12/14/07
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I think #2 is more elegant. I'd do it that way.
It'll be WAY easier with the PM2000!
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