My Ongoing Workbench Project

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Well, it looks like I'll return the threaded rod, and get my $5 back, unless someone can suggest what it might come in handy for... Maybe carp spearing?
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Bill wrote:

threaded rods, a 4" x 4" x 8', and two 1-1/2" 6' angle irons to hang a 4' x 8' OSB platform with 3/4" angle irons to support the edges from the gar^h^h^Hshop ceiling. all kinds of crap can be stored up there much to the OverLord/SWMBO's chagrin.
- Doug
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Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project (there's a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).
If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood doesn't take glue well.
Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.
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wrote:

Clamping, of course. I'd use the rod and holes for clamping 'til the glue hits full strength, then remove the rods for next project (there's a bundle of such rods in the corner of my shop).
If you were using green wood, the rods could hold things together, and the nuts could be adjusted to take up slack, as well. Green wood doesn't take glue well.
Most of my glue-ups of repetitive sorts (edges on plywood) are clamped with blocks-and-threaded-rod assemblies, which are easy to fabricate, by the dozen, as long as the threaded rod holds out.
--
I appreciated reading your answer. Thanks! It reminds me that some use
homemade
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wrote:

I advise 0 threaded rods. They are not needed and don't add anything. If you need to align the pieces, use cauls.
Luigi
Might they add support around the machinist's vise, an area which would be subject to some pounding?
Bill
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On 10/08/2009 02:41 PM, Bill wrote:

Personally...none. The wood will want to expand and contract with humidity changes. The steel rod won't.
I built my bench with a laminated maple slab top, no end caps, no aprons. It sits on two trestle ends. Very similar to the knockdown Holtzhapffel by Chris Schwarz.
Chris
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Placement, regardless the number of rods, should (and I suspect you've thought of this) take into consideration the clamping dog holes, vise parts, planned or intended.
.
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Bill--
Though I used to use rods as you describe, I haven't for many years now because I came to believe they were unnecessary. Even as an alignment aid, there are easier ways.
Here's a workbench I made a few years ago. No rods, and it's held up well.
http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
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--
Best regards
Han
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Han wrote:

Well since "beautiful" is already taken, let ME be the first to say "Awesome!" :-)
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
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wrote:

Since I can't use beautiful and awesome, I'll just say WOW!
Luigi
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scrawled the following:

I'll second that. I like the shop-built metal bits, too. Classy!
--
Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight
very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands.
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It looks beautiful and it is inspiring. Thank you for sharing. I have decided against using the threaded rods for the reasons you mentioned.
Bill
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Following Lew's suggestion, I plan to rip some SYP 2 by 8 lumber in half, glue the resultant pieces together with the factory cut side down, and sand the down side to make a workbech top. It will thus be approximately 7.25/2 > 3.5 inches thick.
The Rockler 9" quick-release vise has drawn my attention. However it has a maximum top thickness of 2.75" inches. Since it's important to me to have the vise level with the top I have been contemplating a good way to cut the necessary "dado". What makes this tricky is that the best side is on the opposite site of the side that needs to be cut!
One thought would be to put a nice board adjacent to the top and use it as support for the router. This might work fine for up to a few inches. Alternately, I could just cut it and shim it as necessary. My other ideas seem to break down because the surface I wish to cut on may not be flat or level. Always willing to listen to ideas...
--------
I've also been thinking about binding the benchtop with some hardwood. I was thinking that this might look good and it may add structural integrity to the front vise (the rear jaw being seated in hardwood rather than SYP). Is this latter point a valid concern?
Thank you for listening! Bill
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I was thinking of the possibility of using a "bridge". How deep can plunge routers route (Dewalt 618)?
Bill
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